Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Chris Perkins |
| Submitted By: | Jay Eggleston on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Starting the route at the first bolt.
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Description This fine little climb is just to the right of Whole Lotta Sober. Climb up through two small roofs with the crux at the second roof. The rock is well featured and the climbing is mostly easier than 5.9 with a short crux.
Location This is the furthest left line of bolts on the wall. It starts to the right of some jumbled blocks at the base. Descend from a two bolt anchor at the top.
Protection 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Looks like the gear was good, but now you can be l...
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| Comments on Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep |
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.7
| This climb was fitted with bolts summer of 2010. FA Chris Perkins. Indeed it can be lead via trad, but the end of the climb is pretty run out after pulling the roof, and the wall in general needed more beginner routes. |
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Actually, I was thinking about this. "Whole Lotta Sober" is the line _just_ left of this line. It is still trad and pulls through the weakeness in the roof. The crux is pulling onto the blank-ish face above the hang. Good pro at the crux. "First Blood" pulls the roof further left of this.
This line was bolted after Whole Lotta Sober and is yet to be named. I have the FA on both lines, and have not thought of a name yet. Tod's son did the SA. It's definitely 5.7 and sports a giant "surprise" under the lower overhang. I'm leaning towards "Too much nooky, not enough sleep".
cheers.
-chris |
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2012
| Fun climb. We had a newer climber with us, and she had trouble on the routes to the right (at the roof section of each one). This one she did. |
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