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Too Much Fun for You
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 14
votes
Routes in The Monolith
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American Slab Dance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V2 5+ |
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Black Wall T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bullet from Fritz T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Center Slab Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Checkered Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chickenhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Duct tape crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flakey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Freedom Roof S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inside Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just One More T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Local Motion S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Orangutan Overhang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shot on Sight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spring Fling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Too Much Fun for You S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vein of Gold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Zigzag T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | John Trautwein, John Mitchell |
| Page Views: | 1,595 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | L. Von Dommelheimer |
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Description
This long sustained route will make 5.10 gym climbers cry. Climb through well spaced bolts on slab, cracks, and chicken heads. Brings lots of slings to help with drag, although you'll have all but the full weight of the rope on you by the chains. Every other bolt (or so) is a 5/16 button head in the crux sections. The button heads should be treated as suspect.
Location
This route starts right of the large dirty gully to the right of Orangutan Overhang. it climbs the slab and moves slightly left to pull the roof then back right on the run out slab.
Protection
15 bolts (and a piton that can easily be skipped) Two bolt ASCA anchor. To descend there are several options. A double rope rap will take you to the ground, a 70m rope will take you to the second anchor on Orangutan (you can see this anchor off to the left while on route). You can also walk off to the right which takes about five minutes.
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