This route is about 250 feet to the right of Supercrack. You can't miss the obvious OW that starts from a pedestal and is the start of the route. A pretty burly route in general. It starts off in an OW which is very conducive to laybacking. A #5 Camalot makes this section tolerable. Where the OW constricts to thin crack there is a notch which the rope runs directly over and threatens to bind up the rope. Avoid this by placing a #0 TCU there to keep the rope out of the crack. After that, start laybacking and slamming the 1.5 Friends. Don't get tunnel vision, there are rests. Get psyched for the roof at the finish. It's burly but all there.
Many, many #0.75 Camalots or 1.5 Friends (no fewer than 10). One #5 Camalot for the OW/layback start. One set of TCUs should suffice for the low thin-crack section.
fun rest before the biz! rest up and go!!!
red metolius anybody?
|Comments on Too Much Cake
|By Matt Pesce|
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Use a 6 friend with a QD and a #4 in the high horizontal to avoid pinch and protect oneself whilst the crack is thin ! Oh how crisp and clean is this gem. # 1 1/2 friends for the meat. 2 ea. on either side of that.