|Teen Queens' Crag
A good climb with good moves and good rock, but engaging and challenging. Gear is good, but a little insecure to place and certainly tricky to get right. After I backing off from the initial ground-up attempt to lead this climb, Tim Davis attempted the FA under the same conditions and took a 30' fall onto the top 2" cam before the continuous crack ended, stopping about 10 feet from the ground.
After a TR ascent by Tim Davis, and a little cleaning on rap, I went up this line again and dug out and fished in a few more RP placements on lead and small holds, leading this line excited, but not in what I believe was any serious danger...
Start climbing at a crack in the base in a left-facing crack and flake system. After a few good jams a good stance for pro is had. Continue up and right in good cracks and flakes, placing a green camalot in the top of the final crack out right- this pro will be your last easy good pro, and has held a major fall already.
From this last good rest, pull over left into a seam/shallow flake (no pro) and though a huge reach from sloping feet up to a somewhat good horizontal hold. Place a #7 or #8 BD stopper or equiv. from an insecure stance. I forget which size it was, but it was pretty solid.
Fight your way up on the undulating but more or less vertical wall on rounded hands and sloping feet with tiny crystals and slopes between. Place a marginal alien (yellow or green) or a bomber highly-curved nut (WC Sper Rock for me) and continue... Fight in a few small brass nuts and head up a body length of semi-hard climbing to a rest below the lower angle top. Slab your way up (5.9-?) to the top well above gear, but safely to the top of the crag to a huge hueco for a belay or rappel.
This route is approached from the toe of the slab perhaps 200' up the rather flat and pedestrian gully. Several large trees grow here, and two smaller pines are nearest the foot of the rock. The one to the climbers tight of these two is very near to the base of this climb.
Cams to 3" for the bottom section, a set of stoppers (the more curve, such as WC 'Super Rocks' etc... the better), some brass nuts like HBs, RPs or BD steel nuts, and an iron stomach.
Pay attention and get gear whenever possible so as not place "Too Little Too Late" and take the whipper.
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