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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Too High for Bry 
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Window Shopping 

Too High for Bry 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Timy Fairfield, John Kear Spring 08, First 3 bolts Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Dec 8, 2008
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Description 

This new route is the longest route at Fillet et Papillon wall. It includes a powerful start to thought provoking face climbing, with some hard cruxes thrown in, to a no hands rest to the hardest moves just before the anchor. The downsides are a scary start on undercling flakes, less than stellar rock, and not much space between this and the adjacent routes.

Start just right of Window Shopping on some really scary looking flakes. Head up and pull the lip on a solid but loose looking jug. From here crimp your way up the wall, taking care to stay on the correct bolt line. Take advantage of any resting opportunities and pull hard moves where the wall steepens around the 8th bolt. Just underneath the final crux bulge resist the opportunity to top out just a few feet left and walk around to the anchors, instead persevere and make a difficult deadpoint to the anchor clipping jug.

Originally bolted as a variation to the start of Window Shopping by Bryan Pletta.

Felt quite difficult for the 12a grade and could easily be 12a/b or 12b.


Location 

Starts just right of Window Shopping, at the far right side of the cave. Next route right is Red Tag Sale.


Protection 

11 Bolts to Chain Anchors. Stickclip mandatory on the looks of the starting holds.



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By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Dec 21, 2008

this climb is cool! it has an interesting start crux and a great finish with some exciting (hollow) rock. very high entertainment on this one.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 8, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

If this is harder than 5.12a it is only because of the opening boulder problem. The face climbing above is mostly low end 5.11 with lots of good resting options to a slightly harder section just before the ledge, then a significantly easier boulder problem to the anchors.

Fun climbing but pretty hollow to start through maybe the first 3 or 4 bolts.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This route needs a little reinforcement from a certain someone to keep it from falling apart. Some of the holds flex when you grab them, which is certainly less than inspiring. Timy, where are you now?!

I would agree with the .12a grade, certainly easier than Little Caterpillar

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 9, 2009

Maybe the problem is all that hangboard training is making you too strong for your own good. Easy there Hulk!