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> Echo Rock - W Face
Too Bold to Bolt
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British X
Avg: 1 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Alan Nelson, December 1985 |
Page Views: | 1,690 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Alan Nelson on Jul 31, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
In the old days, routes were established from the ground up (how archaic!). The bolt wars were raging in the mid-80's, and if you didn't belong to the chic clique or live up to their unwritten standards, you'd likely see your efforts fall victim to a chopper's chisel. Given the proliferation of bolts and routes on Echo Rock, this route was established in a manner that precluded removal: an on-sight free-solo. The name was a tongue-in-cheek commentary for the times. In an ironic twist, one of the resident "big-names" came along shortly afterwards and placed the bolt.
Climb the middle of the face left of Double Dip past a single bolt. Watch out for crunchy rock and bad holds. Clipping the bolt is optional - it is still a "no-falls" type of route. Not recommended for the aspiring 5.8 leader, but it will cure campground boredom.
Climb the middle of the face left of Double Dip past a single bolt. Watch out for crunchy rock and bad holds. Clipping the bolt is optional - it is still a "no-falls" type of route. Not recommended for the aspiring 5.8 leader, but it will cure campground boredom.
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