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 ADVANCED
Rhesus Monkey
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Monkey Business T 
Rheomorphism T 
Too Big To Fail T 

Too Big To Fail 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: C. Parks, T. Bubb, 7/2/13
Season: Gets early am shade.
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2013

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Description 

This route was named after a block that was perched at the crux 2/3's of the way up the route, which we cleaned, and for the summit block that you scramble under to get to the belay, which we did not disturb, and should not be a problem. Both would have been "Too Big To Fail" without consequence. Bank on that. But the route is safe.

This route was obviously un-climbed when we approached it. It looked poor at first, but with some minor removal of some small flakes, one large flake, and a few bushy branches, it is actually a good clean route now.

Climb up onto the bulge to access the crack as for Monkey Business, then climb up and left in that same crack system to a small, shallow, left-facing corner. A the top, go right onto the ledge, then scamper under a large perched boulder (the one that is "Too Big To Fail" and back to the belay in a corner, back 7 meters uphill from the edge.


Location 

This climb starts as for Monkey Business but continues directly upward, finishing in the shallow corner with the crack between 'Monkey Business' and 'Rheomorphism.'


Protection 

A run of cams from 0.75" to 3.5" for the lead plus a few large stoppers and a large cam for the belay. Extra green/red Camalots could be placed if you want to sew it up.



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