Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Steep
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ashes S 
Blue Note S 
Bunkweed S 
Chossy Offwidth S 
Delt Melt S 
Dr. Evil S 
Fat Bastard S 
Glenn's Route S 
Goldmember S 
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 
Johnny Rotten S 
Mini-me S 
Not known at this time S 
Slappin the Johnson S 
Spiderman S 
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 
Stone Free S 
Ten Years After S 
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 
Two Birds Too Stoned S 
Unknown S 

Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cres Snyder, John Baker, Joe Shiefman
Page Views: 1,788
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dillon getting it dialed for the redpoint.

Description 

Originally envisioned by Tony Lusk and drilled on aid I think. Eventually others did a ton of work to clean and solidify the route and did the first redpoint. This thing is super steep on the bottom 20 feet then it is "not so steep" but the moves through here might thwart you.

Location 

Down the hill about two thirds of the way to the toe of the rock. It is the steepest start you will find. It starts just right of the Delt Melt crack/flake which leads to a dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent Slideshow Add Photo
Marty losing the fight against gravity on the not so steep section of the route.
Marty losing the fight against gravity on the not ...
Just past the start of the route.  Damn steep if you ask me Vince!
BETA PHOTO: Just past the start of the route. Damn steep if y...
Snyderman workin' it.
Snyderman workin' it.
A determined Eric Deschamps moves through the roof.
A determined Eric Deschamps moves through the roof...
Cres... early attempt on Cres-sent (around summer 2000).
Cres... early attempt on Cres-sent (around summer ...
JB failing to redpoint back in 2000.
JB failing to redpoint back in 2000.

Comments on Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 28, 2014
By JoeS
Feb 11, 2010

Great route. Really don't understand the bomb rating given by the one person.
By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Super fun, some sharp bits, but in your face from the first hold.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 27, 2011

Super fun! almost got the onsight. Botched the crux move beta. Here is how I did it.

By Dominic Weinstock
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Excellent route! Def use the beta that Pat Mac does in his video down low......I started off using some whack heel hook beta that left me with a limp for a week :)
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 24, 2014

Tightened bolts 1 and 3 with a wrench and lock-tite.
By jbak
Jun 25, 2014

John... thx for your efforts. Are there still chain-draws on Cres-sent ? It doesn't need any, and Cres and I never put any on.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 26, 2014

Yup, 3 chain draws on bolts 2 through 4.
By jbak
Jun 26, 2014

I'd be happy to see them gone. I think I speak for Cres too.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 27, 2014

Tony Lusk says yes to the chains!
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2014

While the chains are certainly not necessary, they make cleaning the line much easier. Hence I would like to see them remain.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 28, 2014

Me too! Much less annoying than someones draws hanging there for weeks and weeks.