Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Ben Kiessel and Ben Gardner?
Page Views: 3,186 total · 18/month
Shared By: Justin G on Jan 18, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun, beginner route with a very easy (5.1) start for the first 15 feet before the actual climbing begins. The crux is about 2/3's of the way up. It is a fun warm-up climb.

Update from Dalton Johnson: there are three potential variations of this route beginning at the second mantel. I did them all on TR solo, so I do not know what the pro situation is like. No offense, but this route, with everything on, is no harder than a 5.7.

Var1: only use the fist crack, the middle crack on the right side of the dihedral, until the crack disappears. From there, move back onto the face and pull the roof moves. This variation makes the route 5.8 (potential pro: cams 1-4).

Var2: only use the face and left side arete. The arete will be overhanging and dirty for a little bit. Move to the arete once the face is a flat undercling. Move back to the face of the route for the last bolt. Then finish this route, 5.9+/10-.

Var3: only use the face and lieback within the dihedral! This make the route 5.9 and is a blast! If one could pull the face moves off only, I would like the beta. I do not think pro would change for this route.

Location Suggest change

This is about 40 feet up the river from Chucky Bill.

Protection Suggest change

It has 2 bolts and needs gear, and it has two anchors at top for toproping.

Photos

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