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Toni Harp Bloc

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FIFM 
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Magical Thinking 
Toni Harp 
Toni Harp's Resignation 

Toni Harp Bloc 


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Location: 41.33184, -72.95908 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 672
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: FooDawg on Apr 1, 2014
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Here is a beta photo of the wall. The climber is o...

Description 

Shady wall and area. Needs a little extra time to dry after rain. Wall is slightly overhung and provides three great climbs with one project line. Some holds down low are slightly crumbly, but are cleaning up really nice as it's being climbed on. The wall itself is slightly detached from the wall behind it, but it has been extremely solid to climb on so far...


Getting There 

The most convenient parking is at the adjacent lots to the ballfields (Located off Valley St & Hard St). From there hike up behind the baseball diamond headed to the right. After the second trail junction to the left hike up over the 8' mound into the small old quarry. The bouldering is to the left and routes straight ahead.

Additionally, from the main parking area on top of the Ballfield Slabs, follow the red trail down the right part of the ridge and when you make it to the base hook it right and follow the unmarked trail towards the baseball fields. As you are walking along, you will see an inset area to the right that looks like a camp site. The wall is in that area right beyond the big "HBO" boulder laying on the ground.


Climbing Season


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Toni Harp Bloc
Conor getting ready to make an attempt to the lip, from the arete crimp.

Magical Thinking V7 7A+ CT : CT Bouldering : ... : Toni Harp Bloc
This starts at the same hold as the other climbs. Climbs through Toni Harp's Resignation until you get to the arete crimp about 12-15ft off the deck. This is where the crux is, from here you need to find a way to the sloper lip.This is pretty mellow up to the crux, but you really need to commit on this one. It is the black line on the beta photo......[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on Toni Harp Bloc Add Comment
Show which comments
By czd
Apr 2, 2014

Any advice for testing it besides standing on the topout and trying to push it off with my legs (which I've done quite a bit of)? Besides the optics of it, its never felt the slightest bit lose, its never budged a millimeter and the block itself does not resonate as if its hollow or completely detached (as in the crack is not crazy deep), but I'd be interested if you had some advice for more thorough tests.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Apr 2, 2014

A 24" pry bar... or a longer 5' pry bar. I'll be there tomorrow after work and we'll do some due diligence on it.

By FooDawg
From: New Haven, CT
Apr 2, 2014

I'd be interested to see what comes of the prying. Bloc has been super solid for us, but testing it to make sure is the best thing to do. Thanks for checking it out for everyone Morgan! Looking forward to the update...

By ChossKing
Apr 2, 2014

Having cleaned and put in sessions on this boulder I can safely that there is minimal danger of choss and that it is a sturdy boulder. Also to stay true to the history of ct bouldering any removed holds from this point on have a high likelihood of being glued back on. Who knows maybe together we can make a classic! Lastly there is an active homeless community living and patrolling near the boulder. They are armed with lead pipes not worth the risk frankly.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Apr 3, 2014

Haha thanks CK! Got any ascents on this block or other routes you want to record? We organized an adopt-a-crag here last year and cleaned a lot of garbage out.. including all the lead pipes ;-)Still haven't come across any homeless people back there, just the signs they were there. Frankly, more climbers = less homeless people and a cleaner area. As for gluing holds, huh? where did you glue because I've only been climbin in CT 15 yrs and I only know of one glued hold. Oh and I deleted your back scratcher comment.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Apr 3, 2014

Those fuckers camping in there are also trashing the area. I cleaned a bit last time and piled it all up on their firepit so they might take notice, if they give anyone any shit I'd call the cops and tell them about a psycho with a knife.

Someone went through the whole area recently and cut vines off of trees, mostly poison ivy that was choking them out, check it out, it was quite a bit of work.

tshirt for craprock- www.cafepress.com/cp/customize/product2.aspx?from=CustomDesi>>>

the block made it through this freeze/thaw cycle, its probably good for another year or two

By Norville Rogers
From: ct
Apr 20, 2014

To whomever left the egregious ticks on "Magical Thinking,"

Please brush them after your sessions. There is enough litter and graffiti left around the base of WR and we don't need more.

Thanks.

By FooDawg
From: New Haven, CT
Apr 22, 2014

I saw them a few weeks ago, they are pretty hilarious aren't they lol. Not sure who put them up there, seeing as they aren't very necessary since you can see everything on the bloc... But, we will brush them tomorrow when we go out there...