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Skeletal Remains
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Buffalo Gap 
Buster Douglas 
Cokes and Crowbars 
Crucifixion 
Custer's Last Stud 
Ear Bone 
Easy Like Sunday 
Guilt By Association 
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Lon's Route 
Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck 
Plea Bargain 
Preparation H 
Presumed Innocent 
Scar Face 
Sewn Up 
Six Gun Sally 
Soiled Dove 
Soiled Father Doves 
Son of a Thousand Fathers 
Storm Trooper of Love 
Tongueless Wonder 
Tubesteak Boogie 
Unnamed 3 
Walk in the Park 
Unsorted Routes:

Tongueless Wonder 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Pete deLannoy
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: R.Walters on Apr 15, 2010
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Description 

This route goes up a crack system of sorts, using unique features the whole way. Powerful liebacks lead to pockets and then a big ledge where one can lounge. The crux is through the next couple bolts above the roof. A neat sequence of moves that are both pumpy and technical will get you through to the easier climbing at the finish. The bottom rock is a little slick, but once past the first bolt, things clean up pretty nicely.

As the guidebook states, this would be a difficult onsight. Be ready for everything..


Location 

Immediately right of Buffalo Gap and left of Son of 1,000 Fathers.

The route goes straight up the bolt line. Another 5.11, 'Oral Fixation,' veers left around the 5th bolt.


Protection 

7 bolts, closed cold shuts.
Recommend stick-clip for first bolt.



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