Numerous limestone walls with routes for all abilities. Trad lines... bolt clipping... whatever your taste may be, you'll find it here. The south-facing walls can be incredibly hot in the summer... and quite warm in latter winter and early spring. Regarding crowds... you're more likely to trip over fishermen than have to wait for the classic lines.
East of Sheridan on I-90 about 15 miles to the Ranchester exit. West on 14A about 5 miles to Dayton. As you are entering town, just before crossing the Tongue River bridge, turn right and follow the road that parallels the Tongue River. About 3 miles of dirt road will lead you to a Y in the road. Bear left, regain the river for about 2 more miles. The road ends in your parking lot. Follow the foot trail for about 1/2 mile to a bridge that crosses the river. The first climbs are located on the wall to your immediate right. Continue on the trail upstream... and you'll see SEVERAL walls to your right.
For more detailed information, stop in at Bighorn Mountain Sports or Back Country Bicycles in Sheridan, Wyoming.
The uber-classic canyon trad route! A splitter fingercrack up a yellow, right-facing dihedral capped by a roof. Ascend it using assorted stemming, laybacking, fingerlocks, and faceholds; save some energy for the devious traverse below the upper roof to the anchors....[more]Browse More Classics in WY
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for over 100 routes in Tongue River Canyon and the other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.
Trevor, Thank you!!! I have been checking in with the guys at back country bikes all summer! I'll be heading down there now to pick a copy up... If you ever want a partner, I have a lot of free time(climbing time)!
@David - Stop into the Sports Stop in downtown Sheridan and talk to Bruce. He's their climbing guy and keeps a list of locals that might be interested in meeting up with you while you are in town. Good Luck
Tom Johannes has successfully retrieved the drill bit from a new trad crack climb route father up the canyon. Good roof, he rates it at a lower 5.10. Anchors at the top now, will try to post a photo or two later on.