Tongue of Death  5.9 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Greg Glick, JMw 2006 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  JMayhew on Nov 23, 2010 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

There is a steep, nasty, cactus-filled 3rd/4th class ramp that diagonals in from the bottom right of the rock up to the base of a rotten chimney. This climb starts just left of the chimney and ends at a 2 bolt rap station at the top of the left-most twin corners seen from below.
(Best to approach this by rapping in after doing one of the other climbs!)

A tricky start with challenging pro. left of the chimney leads through some orange rock past side by side cracks. Continue up to where the rock steepens and you can eventually work your way right, across the buttress, into the main corner system that is above the chimney. Follow the corner as it angles back right to the summit rap anchors. Use care at the giant "Tongue of Death" just below the anchors.

Rap the route (2 ropes) to the ledge then look for 2 bolts on a block out on the face to get you down. Use caution on the exposed ledge reaching these 2 bolts.

Location 

See "Echo Dancer" for approach and topo picure

Protection 

standard backcountry