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Tom's Thumb

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Flashback T 
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Hangover T 
Skateing Away T 
Thumbelina T 

Tom's Thumb  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 40.25375, -120.53431 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,725
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Muscrat, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010
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Description 

Incredible granite plug on a ridge top. Beautiful climbs up dikes and cracks.

Getting There 

Directions (provided by Tad Hocking):
From Hwy 395 about 12 mi. south of Susanville, head SW up Janesville Grade Road for 4.7 mi. Turn right on dirt road towards Thompson Peak lookout. Follow that road 1.9 miles, then turn right and follow that dirt road to a gravel quarry area about 1.5 miles. Head to the south side of the quarry and you should see the rock.
Addendum: (Added by Muscrat 6/15)
This is a really tough spot to find. Google Earth has it at 4015'13.50" N and 12032'04.17"W. The turn off is at 40 14' 22.07" N and 120 31' 23.98" W. If you get to the fire lookout, turn around, you done gone too far! Keep an eye out to the east on the way back down, you can see it when the road crests from the west side back to the east side. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN THE LAST 150' OF ROAD WHEN YOU ARE AT THE CRAG. The sandy hill is difficult even w/4wd. You have been warned!

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.6 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Tom's Thumb
Paul Robie on 2nd ascent of Flashback 1978

Flashback 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Northeast California : Tom's Thumb
Face and Knobs...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Tom's Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
BITD
BITD
Tad Hocking leading FA Skating Away 5.8 1977
Tad Hocking leading FA Skating Away 5.8 1977
BITD
BITD
Paul Robie on Flashback 5.7 1978
Paul Robie on Flashback 5.7 1978
Paul Robie following Hangover A1 1978
Paul Robie following Hangover A1 1978
Tad Hocking leading FA of Skating Away 5.8 1977
Tad Hocking leading FA of Skating Away 5.8 1977

Comments on Tom's Thumb Add Comment
Show which comments
By T Hocking
Dec 26, 2012
Pioneered this crag 77/78 after Joe Fitschen told me the crag had possibilities.

Put up my routes on lead using hexes, stoppers and slinging natural features. Top roped many other routes on the SW
face that others have since bolted.

See Paul Bernards "Rock Climbs Of N.E. California" for history and beta.

Tad Hocking
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 26, 2012
Trip Report by Tad Hocking
By Daniel Siegel
From: Portola, CA
Jul 12, 2015
Went out to Tom's Thumb yesterday.
It was nice to have a crag to yourself on a weekend. Access was super easy.
The climbing is fun, but I would say there is nothing "classic". Also, some of the rock is questionable. In order to get your day's worth be a solid 5.9 leader. You wouldn't want to fall of "Skating Away" or "Hans and Frans". It was a fun place to take some friends that were new to climbing. They enjoyed the challenge or learning friction on granite while still having face holds to break up those friction moves. The setting is beautiful and we didn't see anyone else there.
It appears that someone tried to add a bolt to "Hans and Frans" between the first and the second bolts. The hanger has been removed, but the bolt is still there. The guidebook calls this section of the route "sporty". I would agree.
There was a small wasps nest in the finger crack of "Skating Away". They didn't bother us. I climbed laps on it. It was scary to see as I was well above the bolt and hadn't placed gear yet. Fun times!
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