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Tom Thumb 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Hauck, David Lovejoy, 1971 FFA (entire route): Jim Waugh, 1979
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006
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Heather Hayes powers into the crux of Tom's Thumb ...
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Description 

If you are looking at Green Savior, look just left for a fairly conspicuous tower. On the left side of the tower is a small roof with a fist crack out the left side.

Pitch 1. Climb up fractured, broken rock (kind of spooky) to a belay 15? feet below the roof.

Pitch 2. Climb up rattly rock to roof. Plug some decent gear in and climb out and left. The crack actually gets smaller as you climb and some very nice hand jams await just after the crux. The crack will eventually end in fingers just before the top of it. Rig a gnarly belay.

Pitch 3. The bolts on this pitch were replaced in 2013. Reported to be anywhere between 5.10+ to a whole grade harder.


Location 

Left side Middle section


Protection 

Standard rack, wires, runners.



Photos of Tom Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
Zach Harrison getting into the crux on pitch 3 (rebolted) (Photo by Zach King)
Zach Harrison getting into the crux on pitch 3 (re...
Bobby on the second pitch of Tom Thumb (Photo by Zach King)
Bobby on the second pitch of Tom Thumb (Photo by Z...
Comments on Tom Thumb Add Comment
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By Kyle J. Kent
Dec 29, 2008

Did this route earlier this fall. Everything I heard about the face pitch after the roof sounded really scary so we traversed left to other routes via the Grand Traverse Ledge. Definately carry a #4 Camalot for the crux roof moves.

I suggest Green Savior Direct -> Tom's Thumb -> C.W.Hicks.

A good route, but if you are up to the grade I would reccommend Coatimundi Whiteout over this climb.

By ZachDKing
From: Rumney NH
Nov 13, 2013

Tom Thumb has been re-bolted! Thanks to Zach Harrison. I feel pretty comfortable with GM ratings and I must say the pitch that Zach re-bolted (originally rated 10c on the topo) certainly felt harder than 5.10. In my opinion it required 5.11+ effort with a little spice on the last bolts..maybe I'm just a weenie though..I'd be very interested to hear what other people think.

By Zach Harrison
Jan 4, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

I finally got on this thing after replacing the bolts on pitch three. I would say that it felt solid 5.11 to me, so at Granite Mtn that's 11a? That's what the pitch was rated in the GM fold out topo. Am not quite sure how grades work at Granite Mtn, haven't climbed enough routes there. I thought that pitch 2 was just as hard! It is likely that some holds have broken off over the years. Really fun non-stop action for first 80 feet with small runouts between bolts, but crux is right at one. Final 60 feet of pitch 3 is easier climbing on gear with hand size gear needed at belay ledge. Pitch 4 is 50 feet and runout but easy offwidth. I would recommend a rack of singles from BD # .3 to #4, 12 slings w/ some double runners. Would recommend starting just to the right of the first pitch and climbing the right facing dihedral and working left where possible, it's a nice 5.9ish warm up pitch w good rock and movement. Have fun kids!