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End Crags
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Beginner's Blessing T,TR 
End Route TR 
Layback T,TR 
Pine Tree T 
Tomís Dilemma T 

Tomís Dilemma 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,760
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Layback and Tom's Dilemma.

Description 

Dilemma is located in the center of the crag, about five feet right of a pronounced corner (Layback, 5.6). Climb the crack to a point where it widens slightly about half way up and just below a short, left-facing corner. The crux is passing this wider section and gaining the dihedral above. Look for some great holds on the face to the left. Climb the dihedral to the top and anchor using the trees. Walk off left and follow the gully back to the base of the wall. This is a fun route that is more difficult than it looks.

Protection 

Light rack, up to medium-sized gear.


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By Pete Johnston
From: Irvine, California
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very hard for 5.5, closer to 5.7 to me.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
May 12, 2014

Also thought it was closer to 5.7.... The crux was wet though.
By Russ Keane
Jun 23, 2014

This really climbs like a 5.7. I can see some old school guys in the '50s calling it a 5.5... but man, forget it. And leading it? Yikes, I tried!
By Russ Keane
Aug 18, 2014

Update!

Successfully led this climb. It was nice and dry, and I was feeling more confident. I would consider it higher than 5.5. Maybe not quite a 5.7 by Crow Hill standards (easier than Post Road), so I would have to go with 5.6.