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West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Tommy's 11+ S 

Tommy's 11+ 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike and Tommy Caldwell
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Mar 8, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is literally the leftmost route at the Fortress, and climbs up a nice black/pink streak on the left margin of the Pummeling Wall, just before the crag turns the corner and faces south again.

    The route faces dead east, so catches sun until at least noon. You absolutely need a 60-meter rope to get up and down this thing.

    While one of the easier-graded routes at the Fortress, this makes for a tough warm-up because of some crumbly rock down low and serious crimping on sharp water pockets (gottes d'eau) and little edges through the middle and up high.

    Battle through the choss at bolt one, then climb up into a nice scoop. From here, tricky, sustained climbing on good rock leads to a rightward-rising traverse and an exciting finishing slab (5.10). Finish at double cold-shut anchors. The final two or three bolts are shared with the 5.12 to the right (Only Human; 5.12a/b).


    Protection 

    14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope.



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