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> W Wall: Pummeling Sec…
Tommy's 11+
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Blind Date S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glamorama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Misanthrope, The S |
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Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pummeling, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Repulsion S |
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Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mike and Tommy Caldwell |
| Page Views: | 2,435 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Mar 7, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This is literally the leftmost route at the Fortress, and climbs up a nice black/pink streak on the left margin of the Pummeling Wall, just before the crag turns the corner and faces south again.
The route faces dead east, so catches sun until at least noon. You absolutely need a 60-meter rope to get up and down this thing.
While one of the easier-graded routes at the Fortress, this makes for a tough warm-up because of some crumbly rock down low and serious crimping on sharp water pockets (gottes d'eau) and little edges through the middle and up high.
Battle through the choss at bolt one, then climb up into a nice scoop. From here, tricky, sustained climbing on good rock leads to a rightward-rising traverse and an exciting finishing slab (5.10). Finish at double cold-shut anchors. The final two or three bolts are shared with the 5.12 to the right (Only Human; 5.12a/b).
The route faces dead east, so catches sun until at least noon. You absolutely need a 60-meter rope to get up and down this thing.
While one of the easier-graded routes at the Fortress, this makes for a tough warm-up because of some crumbly rock down low and serious crimping on sharp water pockets (gottes d'eau) and little edges through the middle and up high.
Battle through the choss at bolt one, then climb up into a nice scoop. From here, tricky, sustained climbing on good rock leads to a rightward-rising traverse and an exciting finishing slab (5.10). Finish at double cold-shut anchors. The final two or three bolts are shared with the 5.12 to the right (Only Human; 5.12a/b).
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