Tommy Knocker- South Face
||Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 360', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+ [details]|
|FA: ||James Garret & Chris Donharl, January 2000|
|Season: ||Spring/ Fall|
|Page Views: ||294|
|Submitted By: ||IanA on Apr 24, 2012|
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Bill on top of Tommy Knocker.
Pitch 1: 40m Begin on the towers south face. Climb up and right on loose rock, then up 5.9 left-facing corner. Continue angling right to a large ledge. Traverse right and build a belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 2: 25m Climb up 5.9 left-facing dihedral on excellent finger jams. Pull over short rotten section and move right and build a belay below a wide crack at the saddle between Tom-Tom and Tommy Knocker.
Pitch 3: 20m Follow 4 bolt ladder with a few placements in between to a few free moves and a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the bedding seam.
Pitch 4: 29m Walk right along bedding seam and climb first groove to a 5.10 off-width to the summit. Belay off fixed anchor.
Descent: Two double rope raps. Rappel to the top of pitch 1 then to the ground.
This route climbs the separated spire off a divided from the main Tom-Tom Tower. The route starts on the south face.
Standard desert rack, hooks, quickdraws,and rivet hangers.
Bill leading the bolt ladder of pitch 3.
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2012
Good route with less choss than the others.