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Tom-Tom Tower Area
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Reach Around- Tommy Knocker to Tom-Tom Variation, The T 
Tom-Tom Tower- North Face T 
Tommy Knocker- South Face T 

Tommy Knocker- South Face 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 360', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+ [details]
FA: James Garret & Chris Donharl, January 2000
Season: Spring/ Fall
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: IanA on Apr 24, 2012

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Bill on top of Tommy Knocker.


Pitch 1: 40m Begin on the towers south face. Climb up and right on loose rock, then up 5.9 left-facing corner. Continue angling right to a large ledge. Traverse right and build a belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 2: 25m Climb up 5.9 left-facing dihedral on excellent finger jams. Pull over short rotten section and move right and build a belay below a wide crack at the saddle between Tom-Tom and Tommy Knocker.

Pitch 3: 20m Follow 4 bolt ladder with a few placements in between to a few free moves and a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the bedding seam.

Pitch 4: 29m Walk right along bedding seam and climb first groove to a 5.10 off-width to the summit. Belay off fixed anchor.

Descent: Two double rope raps. Rappel to the top of pitch 1 then to the ground.


This route climbs the separated spire off a divided from the main Tom-Tom Tower. The route starts on the south face.


Standard desert rack, hooks, quickdraws,and rivet hangers.

Photos of Tommy Knocker- South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Ian on pitch 2.
Ian on pitch 2.
Bill leading the bolt ladder of pitch 3.
Bill leading the bolt ladder of pitch 3.

Comments on Tommy Knocker- South Face Add Comment
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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2012

Good route with less choss than the others.