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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,315
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Steep crack climbing followed by an off-vertical technical face above.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Climb up to the lone bolt, and make the crux move across the face to the crack (protection) below the notch in the overhang. Pull through the overhang, on large features, and follow the line of weakness up to the two bolt belay.

Pitch 2 (5.10a): From the belay, move right, clip the bolt and then traverse under the bolt to the crack system. Climb the crack until it narrows off, and jog right past the "hollow sounding Tombstone flake" (Lawyer and Haas) and continue up the crack to a bulge with a pin. Pull through the bulge (crux) to a small stance and follow the crack to a bolt and continue face climbing, jogging right after the crack system runs out. Continue trending up and right, past two horizontals (poor pro) & some pockets, to the top.


Start: Where the approach trail meets the main cliff. Look up about 10-15 feet for the lone bolt on the left side of the cliff before it becomes progressively dirtier.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope.


Pitch 1: One bolt, two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: Two bolts, one pin, fixed anchor on a tree at top.
Single rack to 3".

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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 19, 2010

I'm not 100% sure why the pin is there on P2. I was able to get a solid micro-cam in the crack system to the left (a #4 WC Zero, purple Metolius size) essentially at the same place as the pin. I thought the protection up high after the bolt was not as good as I was hoping for. The terrain is easier, but the route finding was trickier for me.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 8, 2011

Really good climb, with some nice splitter climbing - steep and sustained, with well protected tricky crux. One of my favorite pitches in the park.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Apr 12, 2011

Definitely trend right at the top, the pro is better.
By Jim Lawyer
Sep 2, 2015

I think this is one of the best routes of its grade in the region. It has excellent protection and varied climbing (jamming, laybacking, face climbing). I agree that the protection at the top is more spaced, but I find that I can pretty much place gear with my previous piece near my feet.

Note that the fixed anchor at the top is hidden under tree branches. It sits back pretty far and isn't great for rappelling. You can rappel with a single rope using the fixed anchor just over the edge climber's right of where you top out.

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