Tombstone Terror 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Anderson, Miller, Smith, and Sumner 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 |
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Last good stance before the crux...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map
Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is probably the best 5.10c pitch at the Leap. This route is located around the corner to the left of the start of Traveler Buttress. The climb gets its name due to the large rocks at the base that look like tombstones. The first 15ft are unprotected so don't fall.
Face climb up to the roof and work to get your first good gear in place. Follow the thin crack with jams and liebacks. The climb does not let up until handjams are reached above the small roof. Follow a widening crack to a set of anchors at 80ft. A real gem...
Protection Gear to 3", include small cams and extra hand-sized pieces.
mid crux, note the hard sport climb to the left...
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Tombstone climbs the corner system in the center o...
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| Comments on Tombstone Terror |
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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 18, 2007
| This is really a fantastic pitch!!
Some bouldery moves off the ground to get going, then an incredible layback/stemming dihedral! Slight spray alert, I was very psyched to onsight this thing! |
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10+ PG13
| Kinda scary off the ground, unprotected, sustained moves above a bad landing of tombstone shaped rocks that have probably seen their fair share of blood splatters.
Above that the gear is great, however the moves are still sustained and hard. Get ready for some exhilarating friction stems and .10+ liebacking.
A few fun and exposed moves up high and your at the anchor. |
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Aug 5, 2009
rating: 5.10+ PG13
| Took another crack at this route on lead last weekend. I feel like I'm a pretty competent 5.10 climber at this point and this route was very challenging for me (sustained). Technically it was well within my ability, but I lost my head and my endurance just before pulling the roof at the end of the crux.
Although the gear is great for 90% of the route, the start is... really scary. Poorly/non protected 5.10 climbing with a small .5 camalot placement 7-8 feet from the ground that will do little to protect your fall once past waist level. At it's peak scariness, your feet get up to 15 ft. off the ground until you hit some good gear.
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By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| Anyone else think the anchors for this climb are in an awkward place? |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 20, 2009
| The bolted anchor that you traverse to out right is actually the Boothill anchor. The 'trad' way to do tombstone is to belay at the break, and then top out the second (and seldom done) pitch. But people use the boothill anchor for cragging convenience. |
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