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The Tombstone
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Dark Shadows T 
Old School Executioner T 
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Tombstone Crack T 

Tombstone Crack 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: MC, ETR 1987
Page Views: 3,234
Submitted By: eMurdock on Nov 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Tombstone Crack

Description 

Continuous hand crack on left side of north face; you can't miss it. Sustained crack with a crux at the end. There is gear at the pumpy crux, but you have to work for it. You might want to save a wide-hands size cam for the last bit after the crux. This might be one of the best hand crack pitches in the Stronghold.

Location 

Left side of north face. Scramble (might want a rope) 30 feet to belay ledge. 30' rappel (after a 150' double rope rappel from the top of the formation) from 2 bolt anchor below ledge gets you to the ground.

Protection 

Standard doubles rack to #3 Camalot and a #4 might be useful.


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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

A terrific pitch of climbing. Sustained and challenging. A wide section up 3/4 of the way requires at least a #4 to protect, save a #3 for to protect the final moves to the anchors.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I was wrong. Possible FA by Earl Wiggans.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Single rope if you rap to anchors on Old School Executioner. We sent one down on a single line then the second went to the hanging anchors on Old school, pulled and threaded then rapped the rest of the way. A lot easier if you don't go to your middle mark. Pulling the rope from the upper anchor when at the hanging anchor is a little tough so the less you have to pull through the better.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Not sure why this got a PG-13. Good pro from top to bottom.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Apr 21, 2011

The longest fall I ever caught was on this route (the leader's top piece, or 2 pieces came out). Thankfully, it turned out to be a clean fall.

I remember looking up and seeing him start to come off, then looking down at my belay device, bracing for a fall. There was a split second where I was thinking "oh, I guess he didn't fall,"... then rope starts falling down around me...
By Jim Donini
Nov 19, 2012

Great climb! Mostly crack climbing until the high crux where a variety of techniques are needed. Crux initially looks like a hard to protect narrow groove but the cunning climber can get good 1, 2 or three camalot in half way up.
I'll give this one 11-.