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Pitch one begins in an open book for the first 12 feet protected by small nuts (~5.7). The book leads to a groove--narrow chimney heading upwards and to the climber's right. Follow the chimney until its end for roughly 120 feet. It becomes progressively narrower and begins to squeeze, and it squeezes for a good distance! Sling and enjoy the chock stone deep within the chimney. Until the chock stone is encountered, big gear is helpful in the chimney (otherwise, pro is scarce). After the chockstone, the protection opportunities narrow to hand sized pieces deep inside.
When the chimney opens up, follow the vertical crack above that narrows to nice finger locks and hand jams to a triangular hole beneath an enormous roof (5.8). Step left and belay under the roof at a rappel station (requires a 60 meter rope to bail here).
Pitch 2 head left for 10 feet and cut back to the right up another narrow chimney that protects with small finger cracks initially on one side and then on the other (5.8). This chimney ends on a giant platform.
Walk off to the North and then to the East.
Prepare for a total body workout and serious cardiovascular activity!
The Tombstone Crack is the furthest climb to the climber's right (to the North) on the East Face of Reynolds hill listed in the Heel and Toe guidebook. It is ~15-20 feet to the climber's right of Horror Show (100 feet right and upwards from Moors Crossing).
Rappel after pitch 1 (60 meter rope required!) or walk off to the North and then East from the top.
Standard Vedauwoo Rack required. We carried a #4 Camalot and #5 Friend and used both. Indeed, a #6 Camalot would be nice on both pitches but is not necessary.
|Comments on Tombstone Crack
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Jun 9, 2011
I led this last summer with gear to 3 inches, and it was a bit scary. I managed to fish 2 nuts in for about 100 feet before I plugged in my #3. Thank God it was easy chimney. Stemming moves.
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2011
This climb is incredibly fun and interesting if you like chimney climbing. It can be done in one long pitch to the top with a 60 m rope.