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This fun little route starts with a short flake/left-facing corner to a belay ledge. From the belay ledge, head up a left-facing corning through increasingly challenging moves until it merges with Gunsight to South Peak, a 5.3 ramp that heads to the summit. Gunsight to South Peak can get kind of crowded.
This route is just left of the start for the popular Green Wall. There are a number of descent options from the summit, the most popular being the traffic jam chimney (named so for a reason!).
Bring a standard rack. You'll have to set up a gear belay at the end of the first pitch, and (if I remember right) at the top. Lots of great pro placements throughout this route.
We planned on Green Wall, and here I am thinking t...
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: Wells, Me
Mar 1, 2009
Great route. Good for a first 5.8, plenty of stances and opportunities for gear.
|By K Baumgartner|
Oct 10, 2013
Such a great line. P1 is pretty cruiser; lieback the flake and then belay from the left facing corner on the ledge.
P2 is fantastically exposed. The crux is definitely pumpy and doesn't have the greatest rest stances, unlike the rest of the route.
Finish up Gunsight to South Peak. Either build a belay on half way up the GSP section or go to the top and use the high test anchor on the East Face. Communication may be less than desirable if you belay from High Test.