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Great Red Book Rock
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Bury the Hatchet 
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Liner, The 
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Subject-Verb Agreement 
Tomato Amnesia 
Unsorted Routes:

Tomato Amnesia 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don Wilson, Karen Wilson, Jack Marshall
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Jan 16, 2009
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Maurice Horn starting the slab finish of the secon...

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Description 

Start just left of the mushroom boulder, aiming for a bolt 20' above. Climb up and right, then left to the base of a curving crack. Follow the crack to an anchor, having clipped five bolts getting to and into the crack.
The second pitch follows the crack up the short steep wall, then up the slab to an anchor with chains at a horizontal seam. Another bolt above the belay invites further climbing.... new hardware to us.
There is a fragile flake left of the crack, between the two bolts, that will last as long as no one pulls out on it.
Handren's guide rates the second pitch at 5.5. We thought it significantly harder.


Location 

The route is on the wall right of Great Red Book. There are bolts all over the place, but you are left of the mushroom and some small scrub oaks.


Protection 

Stoppers, tcu's, and small cams to #1 Cam. 5 bolts first pitch, 2 on second.



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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I thought the section at the top of p2 was the crux. We linked the two pitches with a 60m rope but we needed to simulclimb for about the last 20 feet. We did a single rappel of the route with a pair of 60m ropes. Both pitches felt like 5.8 to me.