|Great Red Book Rock
Start just left of the mushroom boulder, aiming for a bolt 20' above. Climb up and right, then left to the base of a curving crack. Follow the crack to an anchor, having clipped five bolts getting to and into the crack.
The second pitch follows the crack up the short steep wall, then up the slab to an anchor with chains at a horizontal seam. Another bolt above the belay invites further climbing.... new hardware to us.
There is a fragile flake left of the crack, between the two bolts, that will last as long as no one pulls out on it.
Handren's guide rates the second pitch at 5.5. We thought it significantly harder.
The route is on the wall right of Great Red Book. There are bolts all over the place, but you are left of the mushroom and some small scrub oaks.
Stoppers, tcu's, and small cams to #1 Cam. 5 bolts first pitch, 2 on second.
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I thought the section at the top of p2 was the crux. We linked the two pitches with a 60m rope but we needed to simulclimb for about the last 20 feet. We did a single rappel of the route with a pair of 60m ropes. Both pitches felt like 5.8 to me.