Pockets and edges to a high first bolt, then surmount a small roof and pass the second bolt. Scoot up and under a large roof and clip the third bolt. Find your way up and around the left side of the big roof, clip the fourth bolt, then figure out a path up and right to the chains.
When the trail to Forgotten Trails reaches the wall, look left and see the steep trough at the left side of the wall in front of you. To the left of the trough is a small prow; a bolted line appears to the left of the prow. This line is Boy Wonder. Go left and find the high first bolt (at about 15 feet or so) of a line that goes up to the left side of the large roof above you. This line is Tom Slick.
4 bolts, chain anchors.
Tricky roof for an on-sight
(photo by Kip Henrie)
From: centerville, utah
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I'm sure Tom made this look pretty slick when he did it. This is a highly unusual climb. Once you figure a way up and over the second roof you might feel boxed in and claustrophobic. The crux is getting into the box then getting your feet to work out ok. I took some nice falls off the roof so no worries there. I do recommend taping up your fingers on your right hand for the key deadpoint hold - it's sharp! Very fun and curious climb. But not really very Kip Slick.
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Worthy climb - pure fun! Several interesting problems to solve with the pump clock running.