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Tom Cat/Pussy Cat 

Tom Cat/Pussy Cat 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 391
Submitted By: WI RockMonkey in UT on Aug 19, 2010
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Description 

These climbs start left of Cheatah. They cross just above the wave. The one on the left (off of the block) is 11.d I think, and the one on the right is 12.a. I find the crux of both routes to be the bottom 20 ft. After pulling onto the top of the wave, it is classic DL crimping and footwork.


Location 

Can be TR'd on same anchors as Cheatah. Have a mindful belayer, as falls usually occur in the first 10-15 ft and with it being such a long route, rope stretch has often landed people back on the uneven ground below.


Protection 

TR Devil's Lake Style



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By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Jul 11, 2012

I think I climbed Tom Cat yesterday, but it is hard to imagine that two distinct routes climb the face left of Cheetah. To begin the climb I started about 6 feet left of the Cheetah crack avoiding the large flake on Cheetah and the large pedestal feet out to the left. A tough start with very small hands brought me slightly left to a right hand pinch under the overhang. From there I moved right and over the overhang to a right hand jug. This finished the crux and for the remaining route I stayed on the face keeping 6 to 8ft left of the Cheetah crack.

I know this route is rarely climbed probably because of the confusion defining its path and that of the "adjacent" Pussy Cat. However, I felt the path I chose, is only slightly contrived at the start, and makes for interesting movement through the crux with a very long fun climb above. It probably deserves more attention.

By Erol Altay
Oct 3, 2012

The real business on this (these) routes is the blank bulge in the center/middle of the upper wall. The bottom is all tricks (good tricks) but the middle is designed to shut you down.