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Center Wall
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Too Light to Wait 
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Witch Doctor 

Toilet Earth 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Hatchett and Jeff McKitterick, 1993
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 31, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The 3 vertical sections and first 6 bolts of toile...

Description 

This is the furthest right route on the Center Wall at Big Chief.

Use caution if you bring up Carville's book and count routes from a landmark, as a new (er) route has been put in just to the left of this route. The easiest way to indentify this 150' (use 2 ropes or find an interesting way to rappell off) route is by the initial slab leading left to a small roof over which the climb seems to dissappear from the base just behind and right of a large rock (25 feet high) that protrudes as a great sitting spot. The other way is to look for the Copper Feather, which hovers above this route.

Climb up over 3 small roofs and two slight variations. The crux heading over the first roof, which is slightly overhung is a 5.9 move.The second roof has two variations, going right which makes the route a 5.9, and going left, which makes the route a 5.9+. Climbing is runout on the top slab, but probably only 5.1. One more vertical section leads you to the top anchors, which are also the belay anchors for climbs headed up the challenging Copper Feather, and are both low end 5.12's.


Protection 

10 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. This is 150' feet long, so use two ropes if you don't want to doulbe rappell using a lower bolt.



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