Toe to Head Linkup (or whatever you want to call it)
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This is an amazing line and makes use of the tallest part of the wall and some of it's horizontals. It connects the lowest point on the wall at the Sundeck Boulder, to the highest point on the wall...the top of King Pin
P1) Climb the "Witblitz Direct" pitch off the Sundeck Boulder. Cramer's guide calls it 10a. Be wary of that grade.
P2) Here you could go up the off-width chimney of Crisco way(5.8), the beautiful second pitch of Green Savior, which could be soloed or simul climbed by a strong party (5.5), or the variation to the right of that(which is 5.8). Use one of these three options to gain the "Comfort Ledge" at the base of the big pitch on Witblitz
P3) Climb the main pitch of Witblitz. There are three options. One is the death defying 5.10 runout, straight up variation. Two is to start straight up, then head right onto a face before the runout, and do a 5.7/.8 runout to a crack out right which joins back into the corner up higher. The third option is start at a super exposed spot out right on the comfort ledge and pull an intense move into the bottom of the crack that eventually leads back into the corner...
...whichever way you choose, belay at the ledge above the beargrass.
P4) Climb up and traverse right around a corner on a short traverse that takes you to the base of "The Bottomless Corner". (5.10) this is a section of the Alter of the Sun linkup
P5) Climb the "Bottomless Corner" to its top and then traverse right across a wild airy traverse that is fairly well protected to a two hanger rappel station (5.10).
P6) Climb straight up, clip a piton, then move right to a juggy face section that is a variation on Kingpin's face pitch. If you manage for rope drag you can have a nice cruisy climb all the way up through the upper blocky section of this pitch and on into the splitter 5.8 corner of Kingpin's final pitch. If you want to top out, take it all the way to the top, or belay at the first huge ledge in this dihedral and be set up for the Cinnamon Girl topout.
P7) And for one last, wild, gratuitous pitch. traverse out left into the Cinnamon Girl pitch. There are two variations. Take the handrail to the first vertical crack and climb that (5.11), or go farther out the handrail to the second vertical crack and top out on that (5.10). Either way, make sure you look down.
Starts on Witblitz Direct, and finishes on either the last pitch of Kingpin, or Cinnamon Girl
a rack of doubles, a single #5 Camalot for the first pitch, and a yellow alien
|Comments on Toe to Head Linkup (or whatever you want to call it)
|By Bobby Treadwell|
From: Prescott, AZ
Dec 7, 2012
One of the best linkups on GM. Dramatic positioning to say the least.
|By Rusty Pipe|
Dec 13, 2012
Seems like this link-up needs an actually good name. Does it have one from the old days? If not, any ideas?
|By Cameron King|
From: Prescott AZ
Jan 20, 2013
The linkup described is a good one, for shore one of my favorites. But the linkup that takes the lowest part of the wall to the highest starts with the first two pitches of the Sorcerer, this can be linked into one marathon 65 meter pitch. Then from the Sorcerer ledge get ready to grovel over to wit blitz, climbing GMs version of the womb fight! Then continue as described. This adds two pitches to this linkup. The route may be called the Flying Pig after the Prescott non climber dirtbag endurance legend who amazing on sighted this route!
|By bob jensen|
Mar 10, 2013
Yeah Thomas. I dragged him up that thing after he hadn't done any climbing in some time. Road our bikes from town...........
The look on his face when he came out of the Once in a Blue Moon corner and was eyeing the traverse over was priceless.
Not a peep from him. He just did it, but he said he was shitting himself. I believe it.
I always just called it Sorcerers to Witblitz to Once In a Blue Moon to Kingpin/Sorcerer finish. Pretty boring though eh?
We were doing that linkup in the 90's.