Toe The Line
|3,017 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||P1: Ron Olsen, Mike Amato, and Bruno Haché, 5/6/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/13/07|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, summer, fall|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on May 6, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: "Toe The Line," P1 beta photo with bolts indicated...
Toe The Line climbs the striking east arete of Tonnere Tower in two pitches. An aesthetic line, with varied moves and good protection. It is comparable to Bihedral Arete in quality, but has a greater variety of moves.
Follow the east face approach on the Tonnere Tower page. Traverse right on the dirt ledge until you're below the east arete. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor on the ledge. Be careful; this ledge is exposed.
P1: Climb a short dihedral right of a gully to the first bolt, and continue up to the arete. At the second bolt, step left, up, and back right (5.8); going straight up is much harder. Make a delicate step-up move (5.10b) at the third bolt. At the fifth bolt, swing onto the left side of the arete; do not go right. Clip the sixth bolt on the left side of the arete and make an airy high-step move (5.9) back onto the arete. Fun! Make some committing moves (5.9) past the 7th bolt. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left edge of the arete. 5.10b, 95', 9 bolts.
P2: Straight above the belay is the 5.11 headwall of Generous Donation; this is not the route. Instead, angle up right, past three bolts, around the right side of the headwall (5.10a). Climb a slab and make a fun hand traverse right to an exposed arete (5.8). Climb the arete and a steep headwall above (5.9). Continue more easily to the anchor. 5.10a, 85', 11 bolts.
Descent: Rappel 85' down to the anchor atop the first pitch; angle the rappel a little to the left. From here, rappel 95' to the starting ledge.
Alternate descent: Rappel 95' to the anchor atop the first pitch of Tag Team; this is a straighter line down from the top. Then rappel 65' to the start of Tag Team, and scramble back down to the start of Toe The Line.
The prominent arete on the east face of Tonnere Tower. Route #1 in the ?beta photo?. Follow the Sport Land approach.
P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
At the third bolt. I think going left around the ...
Cory taking on the crux, as I assume it was intend...
Cory, toeing the line.
Low on the first pitch.
|By Michael Amato|
Aug 3, 2007
It's worth noting that the original line on the first pitch stepped right at the third bolt, but that was prior to a loose block being cleaned. I revisited this route a couple of days ago and this move still goes, but more likely at hard ten or 11a. To keep the grade at 10b, swing out left to easier holds.
|By Bruce Pech|
Aug 22, 2007
Never having climbed the route before, I *thought* the crux was a little testy for Boulder Canyon .10b. Hard .10 seems right for the step right in Ron's photo. Thanks Michael.
The first pitch and the first 1/3 of the second pitch are really nice: devious climbing that doesn't end at the third bolt crux. 2 1/2 stars (can we give half stars?)
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2008
We stitched the two pitches together to make one, long wonderful sport climb at near 60 meters. It's worth doing only if you don't mind the full weight of the rope at the top as well as have ~20 QDs in your possession.
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 4, 2008
I didn't read the description very well and went right onto Tag Team after the 5th bolt on the 1st pitch so I'll have to go back and do it straight up. The crux at the third bolt can be climbed 10a by staying to the right of the bolt, or if you use the holds on the left of the arete I thought it was 5.9. Of all the pitches I've climbed on Tonnere I felt this route was truest to its original grade.
|By Dustin Scow|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 13, 2011
By staying on the face and clipping the third bolt and then continuing on the face to the 4th bolt, I felt that this was much harder than a 5.10b. I would rate those two bolts (from 2-3 and 3-4) as a 5.10d and the rest as around a 5.10a/b. Also, I felt that after the arete, when you throw a high right foot and step up, that this was a fairly committed move with slabby feet and not extremely positve hands. A bit of a balancing act for the whole climb.
|By D Sharp|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2012
As of July 2012, right before topping out at the P1 anchors, there is a smallish prominent "tooth" that would be a sweet jug right on the route, except it's loose. It holds a decent-sized boulder in place, otherwise I would've cleaned it off. Chalked it up with an X. If you pull it, it will go right at your belayer. Just be careful.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 3, 2012
Fun fun route! Use both sides of the arete as necessary; not only keeps the route at grade (although it felt way easier than .10b when I on-sighted; my friends disagree), but the airyness while switching back and forth is what makes the climb so fun! Great second pitch - I look forward to leading that next time.