Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redrock and vicinity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andromeda T,TR 
Black Streak TR 
Broken Ankle S,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Excuse Me T,TR 
Frosty The Boulder 
Happy Feet S 
High Me T,TR 
Hobo's Chimney, The 
Hole in One TR 
Laughing Gull S,TR 
Midnight Train TR 
Morning Glory S 
No Bolt TR 
No Steps TR 
Plank, The T,TR 
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 
Roll the Bones S 
Scotty Bones TR 
Seappage T,TR 
Slab n' Jab T,TR 
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 
Steps T 
Steps Direct TR 
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 
Swayback T,TR 
Toe Jams T,TR 
Velcro T,TR 
Why Me? TR 
Wings of Steal T 
Wink Van Ripple TR 
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 
Y - Boulder 
Zipper T,TR 
Zits S 
Unsorted Routes:

Toe Jams 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: rdlennon on Oct 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: "Toe Jams" heads up the obvious wide cra...

Description 

Toe Jams climbs a toe-width crack on the far right end of the main wall. From the bottom, scramble up and right over blocks to the base of the crack. Belay from here or the bottom, bottom recommended. Hand and fist jam with ease up the low-angle crack until it becomes shallow and face holds appear. Anchor at trees.

This crack is a wonderful introduction to jamming for beginners. The crack itself isn't long or sustained, but offers quite a few moves of compulsory hand- and toe- jamming.

Location 

This is on the far right side of the main Red Rock face. It is a hand crack hidden by trees, with blocks at the base.

Protection 

Light rack of gear to 3". Hexes and cams. Belay at trees or bolted anchors. A toprope can easily be rigged by walking up the path next to the route and anchoring the trees.


Comments on Toe Jams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jan 16, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Two twos and two threes seem good on the lower half and a 0.5 for the crux. Nice light rack for a very fun lead.
By James Chase
Apr 7, 2013

Good route to practice hand and toe jamming as they say.
By chris21
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

There are bolted anchors at the top of this. No need to use trees for a top rope anchor just put quickdraws on the bolts.
By J Meagher
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Awesome splitter with perfect foot jams.
By Florian H
Sep 15, 2014

If you have smallish feet, the start can be a little tricky, since it starts off off-width. I would definitely call the start the crux of this route. Easily protected with a #3 Camalot.

In the middle section (near the crystals), the rock on the right hand side sounds a little hollow. It seems there is a flake on top of more solid rock. Makes for a very grippy crack, but I wouldn't trust my gear there too much.

Easy top-rope setup, too, as chris21 said. Maybe the route description should be updated.