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 ADVANCED
(4) Spring Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Free Bird S 
Ground Effects S 
Jumping Jack Thrash T,TR 
Short Circuit S 
Short Fuse T,S 
Spring, The T 
Toe Cleavage T,S 

Toe Cleavage 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Jan 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start up mossy, dirty rock to a stance. Use face holds and the crack to pull yourself up and find small, slick feet. Continue up, using face holds to your left, while jamming your toes in little pockets. The crux comes between the 2nd & 3rd bolt, with a smallish right hand crimp. Scramble up to just below the ledge, place a stopper and/or cam in the short crack at your right hand, then pull over the ledge to the anchor.

The bolts, as is the case on many other less-climbed routes here, are loose and rusty. From here you can top-rope Free Bird and Ground Effects. This is probably the only reason you would want to do this route.

Location 

Far left side of the Spring Rock.

Protection 

3 bolts, a #8 BD nut and/or 0 Metolius cam


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By another Chad
Jan 26, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Toe Cleavage only has two bolts on it. There's another bolt down low but that's for the neighboring route, Velcro Fly.



Chad
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Jan 31, 2011

I clipped three, all of which spun and were of different sizes. Definitely could be protected with little wires or maybe a couple TCUs. I liked the sound of your idea of just slinging the X-marked flake... unless it's pissing down rain and the basalt becomes a slip'n'slide.
By another Chad
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yea I hope that X marked block stays put. I guess if it hasn't come out in the 24 years that people having been climbing over it it's probably going to be there a while (knock on wood).


Chad