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Todo Cambia 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA: Elise Mailot, Laure Batoz, Caroline North, Cooper Varney FFA: Cooper Varney, R.F. Battitude
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: R.F. Battitude on May 22, 2014

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p3 photo by Austin Siadak

Description 

p1.30m Finger and hand cracks to a two bolt belay. 10b
p2.45m Thin hands up the obtuse corner to #2's roof dubbed "pacman corner" belay at one bolt and .75 camalot. 11b
p3.30m Slam more hands out the second roof and up to a nice ledge with two bolts. 11b/c
p.4 55m climb off belay to the right and into a right facing corner. climb thin hands to a long #3's splitter and belay at a ledge with 2 #1's. 10a
p5. 50m Climb up into a short #4's crack and then up twin left leaning finger cracks to a ledge with one bolt. .10c
p6. 55m continue the left leaning crack system up ramps, bushes, and short flare sections to a huge ledge. belay takes #3/4's. 5.7
p7. 100m Scramble up mostly 3rd class to the base of the peaks upper pillar. stop at a huge ledge with a cairn
p.8 60m Climb a hand crack to an opening where going left through stemming and flakes gains a #4's corner. Belay in the corner when you run out of rope. 10a
p.9 40m Continue the corner to a ledge and begin the final 5m runout on great face holds. 5.9
Scramble 5 minutes to the peak and then descend the Doppler Effect via 7 rappels and some scrambling.


Location 

From the Doppler Effect Approach gully, cut off early and head into the gully that divides Pared Tiempo from the Shark fins Ridge head up two fixed lines and a tight tunnel through to access the base of the route


Protection 

2x cams from .5" to #4
3x camalots .75,1,3
1 set nuts



Photos of Todo Cambia Slideshow Add Photo
cooper on the FA of pitch 2 photo by Austin Siadak
cooper on the FA of pitch 2 photo by Austin Siadak
Pared Tiempo
BETA PHOTO: Pared Tiempo
Battitude starting p1 on the FFA
Battitude starting p1 on the FFA
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