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Somewhere n00b
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Little Todd, The TR 
Road to Utopia T 
Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) TR 

Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: (TR) Brett Pinar and Tim Manefesto, October 2011, FL: Alex Honnold (solo), FL w/ bolts: Jeremy Schoenborn, Robby Schoenborn, September 2014
Page Views: 1,242
Submitted By: caughtinside on Oct 29, 2011

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Jeremy Schoenborn on the first lead of Big Todd

Description 

This thing is destined for greatness! Fun, thug style moves on the prow of the ship. This thing has been called 'the easiest .12a tick in Josh' and 'the Big Moe of Indian Cove' ensuring the crowds will come to siege toprope project it for the coveted one two Joshua Tree tick.

The secret to success on this climb is to squeeze as hard as you can on every grip to hold the grains in place.

The description of this climb is constantly changing as the admins delete the full description to protect their buddies the retrobolters!!

Location 

Leftmost route at Somewhere n00b.

Protection 

4 bolts or TR


Photos of Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) Slideshow Add Photo
Radness!!!!!!!! <br /> <br />(SteelMonkey pic)
Radness!!!!!!!!

(SteelMonkey pic)
Robby Schoenborn on the B.T.
Robby Schoenborn on the B.T.

Comments on Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2014
By Murf
Oct 30, 2011

Could this be bolted as a lead?
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

There is talk of a possible bolting happening next summer. The 4ft long rebar glue-ins will need the summer heat for the glue to set and cure properly. Regular expansion bolts will just not hold in the sugary oatmeal patina, regardless of size, length, or girth.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 3, 2012

Alex Honnold soloed the Big Todd on his recent trip to Joshua Tree!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 24, 2014

Alex Honnold soloed this......all 35 ft? The sugary oatmeal patina texture sounds incredible.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 27, 2014

4 bolts appeared and was recently led by FL (lead) Jeremy Schoenborn, Robby Schoenborn 9/14
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 27, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Bolted! Now that is pathetic! The Gordo_Bots strike again!!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 29, 2014

Wow. Where to even begin. So many transgressions to such a proud route!!!

First, you guys changed the grade on this climb. I listed it as .12a, because it was 12a before some tossers aggressively cleaned the holds into jugs. Way to drag it down to your level chippers! But the fact that my opinion of this climb was changed to .11- without my consent just shows that ethics don't exist on the internet.

Second, a couple guys bolting in bad style which had already been led in good style! And then claiming the FA! Shocking!! Rap bolting a route which had seen an onsight free solo... then claiming the FA! Newsflash: if something has been climbed without a rope before you, you didn't get the FA!

I have re-edited the route to reflect it's proud and true history!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 30, 2014

Spiderline. First one up without a top rope is the FA.
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 30, 2014

The first ascent information for this route has been edited to reflect the convoluted nature of the various ascents.

FA or first ascent is just that - the first person or persons to climb the route in any style, be it aid, top-rope, free climbed or even on-sight solo. The first ascent, depending upon the manner of the ascent, may be improved upon but there can only be one first ascent.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

But wait Todd... you said the FA guys thought it was 11b... then contradict yourself and the true FA-ists by calling it 11-. So which is it? Is 11b now 11-? Is 11- now the industry standard for 11b?

I'm sticking with solid 5.13, which is 12a.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 1, 2014

So two guys can get the same toprope FA? And I can erase any lead bolt ascents by erasing the lead bolts?