This fun face climb lies on the right side of Buttress 4. Buttress 4 is the clean looking face to the right of the area in shadow (to the right of the face with the "pointer"-which is buttress 2)
Climb up past 6 or 7 bolts (crux) to a large ledge. Continue up past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 100 foot rap.
As mentioned elsewhere, Broken Dreams (on the Kamchatka Block) is easily reached from the top of this route.
12 or so draws.
|By Richard Shore|
Jan 7, 2013
Of the handful of .9's and .10's I did out here in Mongolia, this one felt the hardest because it was the most sustained. 5.9+++.
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
best route at east siberia. climb buckets with 2 bolts to get to a short easy section, then follow 3 bolts along a faint, diagonal dike to another short, easy section which leads to a steeper headwall with 3 more bolts.
i would call the dike (friction) section solid 10a and the headwall section 5.9. this climb is (imho) significantly better (and just as hard or harder) than dos chi chis. crux sections are well protected, but there is decking potential elsewhere.
a 70m rope made it to the ground with little rope to spare. i would assume a 60m rope to be a bit of a stretch. most new books give this route 9 or 10 bolts. i only saw/clipped eight.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 2, 2013
Toby is a great great climb;....but it doesn't get done so much because you have to scramble about 5 minutes over to the base......it is harder and the moves are thin too;....it's awesome.