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A Bull with Gas S 
Bazooka, The T 
Ben Scabbyface T 
Broken Dreams T 
Child Proof T 
Cross-Roads Finish S 
Dos Chi Chis S 
Gandy S 
George's Route (aka Binder) S 
Glen's Crack T 
Hollywood Rattlesnake T 
Irish Toothache S 
Jack T 
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Old Hornington T 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 
Randy T 
Showers With Dad S 
Toby S 
Weo S 
Yasmine Bleeth S 
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Mark Hoffman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: Randy on Oct 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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This fun face climb lies on the right side of Buttress 4. Buttress 4 is the clean looking face to the right of the area in shadow (to the right of the face with the "pointer"-which is buttress 2)

Climb up past 6 or 7 bolts (crux) to a large ledge. Continue up past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 100 foot rap.

As mentioned elsewhere, Broken Dreams (on the Kamchatka Block) is easily reached from the top of this route.


12 or so draws.

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By Richard Shore
Jan 7, 2013

Of the handful of .9's and .10's I did out here in Mongolia, this one felt the hardest because it was the most sustained. 5.9+++.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

best route at east siberia. climb buckets with 2 bolts to get to a short easy section, then follow 3 bolts along a faint, diagonal dike to another short, easy section which leads to a steeper headwall with 3 more bolts.

i would call the dike (friction) section solid 10a and the headwall section 5.9. this climb is (imho) significantly better (and just as hard or harder) than dos chi chis. crux sections are well protected, but there is decking potential elsewhere.

a 70m rope made it to the ground with little rope to spare. i would assume a 60m rope to be a bit of a stretch. most new books give this route 9 or 10 bolts. i only saw/clipped eight.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 2, 2013

Toby is a great great climb;....but it doesn't get done so much because you have to scramble about 5 minutes over to the is harder and the moves are thin too;'s awesome.

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