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Dome Rock
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Tobin's Dihedral 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 380', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tobin Sorensen
Page Views: 4,010
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 11, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Tobin's Dihedral

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Description 

Eye-popping 200-foot tall dihedral.

P1 (5.10++, 160 feet): Fifty feet of endurance laybacking (with VERY slippery feet) leads to a no-hands rest out on the face. Eighty more feet of easier laybacking with excellent footholds leads to a class-4 trough. Belay thirty feet higher on a small ledge, where the class-4 section ends.

P2 (5.9, 120 feet): Continue up the dihedral to the top of the giant pillar. Runout face climbing leads up and left to a bolted belay. From here, easy fifth class leads to the top of the Dome. It is also possible to make two rappels down Between Nothingness & Eternity (two ropes required).


Location 

Right smack in the center of the Dome. Unmistakable.

Aerial view of the Dome


Protection 

On the first pitch, the crack starts 6-inches wide and slowly tapers to about 3/4-inch (the first fifty feet of endurance climbing is all 4-6 inches wide). The first belay takes 0.5-1 inch.



Photos of Tobin's Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
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Jesse Groves climbs through the crux of Tobin's Dihedral, Dome Rock.
Jesse Groves climbs through the crux of Tobin's Di...
Richard Shore leading Tobin's Dihedral 5.10+
Richard Shore leading Tobin's Dihedral 5.10+
Gettin' busy
Gettin' busy
Definitely use the stem rests before the crux!
BETA PHOTO: Definitely use the stem rests before the crux!
Comments on Tobin's Dihedral Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 11, 2009

About halfway through the endurance crux, it is possible to stem across the dihedral on small knobs and to achieve a much-needed rest.

By zwang
Aug 4, 2011

Offwidth technique isnt going to help on this one. Pure laybacking...On a side note, If you want to just do the first pitch it is possible to exit the dihedral near the top of the first pitch and belay from a bolted anchor. As the climb turns into the "4th class trough" step right around the corner and you will see three bolts that must be from the route just right of Tobin's dihedral. Keep in mind you will need two ropes to rap from here, but would allow you to set up a toprope on the first pitch.

By zwang
Aug 4, 2011

one more note...the crack might be a bit less than 6 inches at the start because a new #6 Camelot did not fit and was not used. For the wide section I used 3 #5 C4's, 2 #4 c4's and felt very good about the pro. Especially the #5 that caught my fall :)

By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

i actually found using OW technique instead of laybacking the start made it quite a bit easier. left side in, good heel/toe, then flip around when it starts necking down. actually did very little laybacking on this one.

By Richard Shore
Jun 11, 2012

I did ZERO liebacking on this rig. OW stacking and knee-jamming until I could start to fist jam. Three #5 camalots would be nice for this, I had two and pushed em both quite a bit. Both of my partners (on toprope) liebacked it and made it look much easier. I'd suggest the OW technique if you want to be able to place any pro for the first 50 feet.

By busik
Sep 2, 2013

Few left side in chicken wings and knee jams, hand-stacks and heel-toe all the way until it becomes hand-size with one #4, two #3 and some smaller stuff. Was moving number 4 above me in OW and hanging probably a dozen times. Felt hard, especially overhanging section in the middle.

1 #5 (not really necessary, only for first 3 meters), few #4 and one or two #3 should be enough to safely protect wide part.