Tobacco Road 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Ladd Raine on Nov 28, 2007 |
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Heather demonstrating the double heel hook method ...
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Description This climb is as classic as its neighboors.
Start up the easy ground just right of the mini-dark and damp cave, then you reach up and start traversing out the roof on very sharp but good holds, coming to the end of the traverse is the crux of the route and it'll make you work for it. The upper portion of the climb is easier than the rest and on rainy days it isn't even done, once you clip the last fixed extendable draw people just lower off so as not to get soaked by the rain.
Location Outside of the overhanging section, to the right of Reckless Abandon and left of Pod (5.13b/c). The route starts easy then traverses out the broken looking rock to the high headwall.
Protection Fixed draws. 7 bolts to anchor.
The climber has just finished the juggy traverse a...
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Long clip before crux moves.
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By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.12a
| 12b in the guidebook. contrary to the description, it is just left of The Mercy Seat (13a/b) not The Pod (also 13a/b), which is several bolt lines away.
this route is a classic (10d to a short boulder prob. to 5.9), but needs new nylon--the yellow specta is now almost a year old and who knows about the green webbing! |
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 4, 2007
| Eddie,
This route is just left of Mercy Seat as you said, but I've heard Mercy Seat called 13b/c, also I don't remember but there is 1 or 2 climbs to the left of this before you get to Reckless Abandon. I just put The Pod, and Reckless there for reference, I wasn't indicating they were right next door.
And yes, the slings do need replacing. |
By Chaz-O
Sep 6, 2011
| The draws are in bad shape too. I noticed several were very worn and sharpened, but I didn't have any extras on me to replace them! |
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