|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||lee hansche on Jul 10, 2008|
|Comments on Toady Dreams||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By S. Neoh
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
"Did I find an easier sequence thru the crux? Perhaps, since I thought it is significantly easier than 10c." I have since confirmed this; if you are confident about climbing up to one body length to the left or right of the bolt line (don't worry, you can still clip the bolts from good stances), the difficulty is more like 10a. I definitely felt I followed the line of weakness today and had to lean out quite a bit to clip two bolts along the way, albeit from good handholds and stances.
I like this route. 2.5 stars for me.
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|I did this route back in June by accident thinking it was Charity Case. I kept thinking it was Charity Case because every time things got hard a little traverse to the right (about a body length on ledges) of the bolt line seem to make it significantly easier. I never thought I was doing a 10 at all. My second, on the other hand, had all kinds of troubles as he tried a few moves straight up.|
Sep 29, 2014
Like other comments above, I moved right at the crux, where the finish is easier than 5.10
If one was to go straight up the bolt line at the crux I feel like the climb is something like 11b
maybe we are all missing a sequence/move.
Pretty cool climb either way, secluded and available even when main cliff is crowded.