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 ADVANCED
Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adultery T 
Birthday Bash T 
Caught Up in the Air T 
Caught up in the Air Direct T 
Cedar Blossom T 
Cedar Pie T 
Common Ground T 
Details at Ten T 
Ex-squeeze Me T 
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 
Happy Camper S 
Happy Ending T,S 
I wanna be sedated T,S 
LeMenestrel Cramps T 
Margin of Error T,S 
New Creature T 
Off The Cuff T 
Oh! Mr. Friction T 
Orangutan Flake T 
Passion and Warfare T,S 
Pawing the Void S 
Petrified Cedar T 
Polliwog T 
Rawhide Arch T 
Sibling Revelry T 
Smoke Hole Weiners T 
Spirit Stick T,S 
Stockings On The Mantle T 
Tadpole Direct T 
Toads Are Us T 
Two In Agreement T 
Unknown 5.5 T 
unknown 5.9- T,S 
Wild Ginger Root T 
Wyoming Dick T 

Toads Are Us 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Little, Mark Pell, Clarence Hickman
Page Views: 1,696
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Aug 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Mary on the crux pitch P2 of Toads R' Us

Description 

The first pitch is probably the most "popular" route at Cedar.
P1= climb the fun slab to a set of anchors 120 feet up. 5.8
P2= Traverse up and right into the Party Bowl. 50 feet.
or head straight up the spicy face to the top. 5.9+

Location 

Where trail heading left detours away from wall to approach the upper tier.

Protection 

NC trad rack, TCU's come in very handy, as does a #3 Camalot. Double ropes are also helpful.


Photos of Toads Are Us Slideshow Add Photo
Greenville local Rob Rogers, cruxing on Toads Are ...
Greenville local Rob Rogers, cruxing on Toads Are ...
Mary coming up P1 of Toads R' Us
Mary coming up P1 of Toads R' Us
Mary about to start the crux section of Toads.
Mary about to start the crux section of Toads.
Local Rob Rogers cruising up P1 of Toads Are Us
Local Rob Rogers cruising up P1 of Toads Are Us

Comments on Toads Are Us Add Comment
Show which comments
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 3, 2012

The first pitch can be almost completely protected by nuts! Very uncommon for this style of granite. See how many you can place.
By Mark Pell
Mar 18, 2012

Originally I led P1 by going all the way to the Party Bowl in one lead, doglegging right at the end to crab into the bowl. Chris took P2 straight up out of the bowl past the belay bolts (steep initial face crux with some thin slab above), and belayed short of the top overlap so Scrap could finish it and all could get a lead on the fa. The variant P2, going direct to the top from near where lower belay bolts are now located, was done the next year in harsh Winter conditions (frost and running ice water) via a nice lead by Scrap at what we felt was about 10a at the time, but a little serious because the gear was small and tricky and we were freezing. The belay left of and below the Party Bowl was from clean gear, no problem. Again, we topped out via a short exit pitch but modern 60-meter ropes would make it to the trees. Both versions ground-up, on sight. Belay bolts on original P1 added by others. Original name was Toads R Us, with a backwards 'R' like the toy store.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 20, 2012

Thanks for the FA history. I will have to try the linkup of P1 to P2. I only thought those bolts were replaced, never knew they weren't part of the FA.
By The Pilsner Prophet
From: Albuquerque N.M.
May 18, 2014

Hi! This is The Pilsner Prophet, legally known as Chris Little. I was there with Mark and Scrappy. I don't remember why, but they asked me to come along. I guess my regular climbing partner, Shane, wasn't there that weekend. I led the second pitch. I went up and right from the anchors. There was a column of very loose rocks stacked on top pf each other, some of them as big as your dishwasher.I got to a small lip and stopped. I hadn't gotten in much from the belay ledge, as I recall. Also, I didn't have my good shoes on. There were some very thin, shallow cracks right there above the lip. I had some of Mark's gear with me-very small aiding nuts. I pulled them out and tried a few. Human hair was probably to wide for those cracks. I decided to go for it, and pulled over the lip. I knew I was committed, but started finding small edges, so I just kept going. I don't remember where, but I stopped to belay and Mark followed me. He got to the lip and seemed to be impressed. He asked me about putting a bolt in. I think I resisted, and Mark said more people would do it if there was a bolt there. I was just tagging along on on their route, so I agreed. Mark and Scrappy went back a few weeks later and did the direct finish and found the party bowl. I've never seen it. Shane died soon after, and Sean took up a collection for the plaque. He put it in. I hope it's still there, and I hope I can see it.P.S.-what's with the PG13?