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Cedar Rock - Main Wall
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Pawing the Void 
Petrified Cedar 
Polliwog 
Rawhide Arch 
Sibling Revelry 
Smoke Hole Weiners 
Spirit Stick 
Stockings On The Mantle 
Tadpole Direct 
Toads Are Us 
Two In Agreement 
Unknown 5.5 
unknown 5.9- 
Wild Ginger Root 
Wyoming Dick 

Toads Are Us 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Little, Mark Pell, Clarence Hickman
Page Views: 1,419
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Aug 27, 2008
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Mary on the crux pitch P2 of Toads R' Us
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch is probably the most "popular" route at Cedar.
P1= climb the fun slab to a set of anchors 120 feet up. 5.8
P2= Traverse up and right into the Party Bowl. 50 feet.
or head straight up the spicy face to the top. 5.9+


Location 

Where trail heading left detours away from wall to approach the upper tier.


Protection 

NC trad rack, TCU's come in very handy, as does a #3 Camalot. Double ropes are also helpful.



Photos of Toads Are Us Slideshow Add Photo
Greenville local Rob Rogers, cruxing on Toads Are Us
Greenville local Rob Rogers, cruxing on Toads Are ...
Mary coming up P1 of Toads R' Us
Mary coming up P1 of Toads R' Us
Mary about to start the crux section of Toads.
Mary about to start the crux section of Toads.
Local Rob Rogers cruising up P1 of Toads Are Us
Local Rob Rogers cruising up P1 of Toads Are Us
Comments on Toads Are Us Add Comment
Show which comments
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 3, 2012

The first pitch can be almost completely protected by nuts! Very uncommon for this style of granite. See how many you can place.

By Mark Pell
Mar 18, 2012

Originally I led P1 by going all the way to the Party Bowl in one lead, doglegging right at the end to crab into the bowl. Chris took P2 straight up out of the bowl past the belay bolts (steep initial face crux with some thin slab above), and belayed short of the top overlap so Scrap could finish it and all could get a lead on the fa. The variant P2, going direct to the top from near where lower belay bolts are now located, was done the next year in harsh Winter conditions (frost and running ice water) via a nice lead by Scrap at what we felt was about 10a at the time, but a little serious because the gear was small and tricky and we were freezing. The belay left of and below the Party Bowl was from clean gear, no problem. Again, we topped out via a short exit pitch but modern 60-meter ropes would make it to the trees. Both versions ground-up, on sight. Belay bolts on original P1 added by others. Original name was Toads R Us, with a backwards 'R' like the toy store.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 20, 2012

Thanks for the FA history. I will have to try the linkup of P1 to P2. I only thought those bolts were replaced, never knew they weren't part of the FA.