|Cedar Rock - Main Wall
The first pitch is probably the most "popular" route at Cedar.
P1= climb the fun slab to a set of anchors 120 feet up. 5.8
P2= Traverse up and right into the Party Bowl. 50 feet.
or head straight up the spicy face to the top. 5.9+
Where trail heading left detours away from wall to approach the upper tier.
NC trad rack, TCU's come in very handy, as does a #3 Camalot. Double ropes are also helpful.
Greenville local Rob Rogers, cruxing on Toads Are ...
Mary coming up P1 of Toads R' Us
Mary about to start the crux section of Toads.
Local Rob Rogers cruising up P1 of Toads Are Us
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 3, 2012
The first pitch can be almost completely protected by nuts! Very uncommon for this style of granite. See how many you can place.
|By Mark Pell|
Mar 18, 2012
Originally I led P1 by going all the way to the Party Bowl in one lead, doglegging right at the end to crab into the bowl. Chris took P2 straight up out of the bowl past the belay bolts (steep initial face crux with some thin slab above), and belayed short of the top overlap so Scrap could finish it and all could get a lead on the fa. The variant P2, going direct to the top from near where lower belay bolts are now located, was done the next year in harsh Winter conditions (frost and running ice water) via a nice lead by Scrap at what we felt was about 10a at the time, but a little serious because the gear was small and tricky and we were freezing. The belay left of and below the Party Bowl was from clean gear, no problem. Again, we topped out via a short exit pitch but modern 60-meter ropes would make it to the trees. Both versions ground-up, on sight. Belay bolts on original P1 added by others. Original name was Toads R Us, with a backwards 'R' like the toy store.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 20, 2012
Thanks for the FA history. I will have to try the linkup of P1 to P2. I only thought those bolts were replaced, never knew they weren't part of the FA.
|By The Pilsner Prophet|
From: Albuquerque N.M.
May 18, 2014
Hi! This is The Pilsner Prophet, legally known as Chris Little. I was there with Mark and Scrappy. I don't remember why, but they asked me to come along. I guess my regular climbing partner, Shane, wasn't there that weekend. I led the second pitch. I went up and right from the anchors. There was a column of very loose rocks stacked on top pf each other, some of them as big as your dishwasher.I got to a small lip and stopped. I hadn't gotten in much from the belay ledge, as I recall. Also, I didn't have my good shoes on. There were some very thin, shallow cracks right there above the lip. I had some of Mark's gear with me-very small aiding nuts. I pulled them out and tried a few. Human hair was probably to wide for those cracks. I decided to go for it, and pulled over the lip. I knew I was committed, but started finding small edges, so I just kept going. I don't remember where, but I stopped to belay and Mark followed me. He got to the lip and seemed to be impressed. He asked me about putting a bolt in. I think I resisted, and Mark said more people would do it if there was a bolt there. I was just tagging along on on their route, so I agreed. Mark and Scrappy went back a few weeks later and did the direct finish and found the party bowl. I've never seen it. Shane died soon after, and Sean took up a collection for the plaque. He put it in. I hope it's still there, and I hope I can see it.P.S.-what's with the PG13?