To The Sun 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Lynn Householder, 1979 |
| Season: | August-February |
| Submitted By: | Merlin on Oct 1, 2006 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Eagle Rock MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A buddy of mine and I headed up to do the Dihedral Route on Eagle Rock, since someone was already on their way up we figured first come first serve and headed towards this route.
Scramble up another 30-50 feet from the base of the Great Dihedral and set a belay when it becomes obvious that the climbing is 5th class. From here you can either traverse right for 20 or so feet to a tree and then head up the obvious buttress (5.5) or head straight up through some roofs (5.6-5.7) before gaining the obvious buttress on Eagle Rock.
Climb up 150-200 feet and set a belay on any of a number of large ledges when you feel like it. From here, head to the top of Eagle Rock.
You can scramble 100 or so feet to climbers left and do a series of rappels from bolts on the Dihedral route to escape.
Protection Standard rack, nothing to big or small.
By Merlin
From: Grand Junction
Oct 1, 2006
| I'm not sure is this is standard or not, but I posted this route to let people know to skip it. The climbing was dull, unaesthetic, and quite dirty. We found a bouldering move on the route to add to the spice up top (v1 or v2?), but other than that, this route is pretty boring.
If you are a new leader, make sure to take the traverse under the roofs towards the obvious tree before heading up. It might be a good first lead, and the views up top are nice, but otherwise steer clear. |
By Dmitriy Zinchenko
May 26, 2009
| Merlin is spot on about traversing right to the tree before you start climbing up the buttress. The climb is very much like Pine Tree Route lower down in the canyon - relatively easy and low angle with OK to decent pro. I didn't think it was that bad. Not to be missed is the final, steep handcrack that's short (sadly) and protects with a #3 Camalot. |
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