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Cliffs of Insanity
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Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
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Fairy Dust T 
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Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

To The Pain 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sam Feuerborn & Jack Cramer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Sam Feuerborn on Apr 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Pretty much the whole route

Description 

Pitch 1: is just to the left of True Love and Mawwage. Starts in a blocky corner to some sweet stemming to a splitter that goes through a notch into some more blocky climbing to the belay.

Pitch 2: Goes up the obvious clean OW splitter to the anchors on the right side.

Can be rapped with a 70, a 60 MIGHT make it

Location 

It is just to the left of True Love and Mawwage.

Protection 

1x .4
2x .5
3x .75
3x #1
1x #2
1x #3
2x #4
3x #5
2x #6

Stuff smaller than the #2s can be left at the first belay


Photos of To The Pain Slideshow Add Photo
nice name fitting for this route
nice name fitting for this route

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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 11, 2013

wow sam! hit a nerve there! see ya sat night!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 11, 2013

He called your dick small on the internet. I'd fly off the handle and shit bricks if I were you. Oh wait, you already did. Nevermind...
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Apr 11, 2013

I don't know.... His offwidth is bigger than yours.. And takes more to protect. He might have a bigger wiener.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 12, 2013

damn, with all this hub bub i'm gonna have to climb this route and see what the hell is going on here.

is there a scene in the movie where the main bad guy says he is going to have to build a better brute squad? i think i watched it in high school, so its been a while.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Apr 14, 2013

Dang I'm bummed I missed the rant, heard it was a good one.

Just was feeling sassy when I posted it and was bummed the name was taken, turns out I skimped on the research.

It's certainly chossy below the belay on the first pitch and that's a bummer since the second pitch is such a fun moderate OW.

Devin, you'll have to check out the new route you saw me on, it's pretty bitchin'.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 25, 2013

i would like to check it out but word is :stay off this route? Sam i know you knew that the name"Brute Squad" was spoken for..you named humperdinky after a climb that had been up for years? an sed you skimped on the recherche.. so at witch point i think you saw Brute Squad.. at the top of the listed climbs on this wall. would have loved to talk to you the morning i saw yer crew driving up the road to the approach trail. but no worry's you know what i look like so if you ever wan't to shoot the shit flag me down.. im in the creek year round ... DF