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The Starcastle
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To The Fire Wind 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 1997 Tom Hanson
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Tom Hanson on Oct 9, 2001

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Description 

This follows the the right of two cracks on the east side of The Starcastle. This is the eye catching crack which is seen from The Headstone, to the east. It appears to be a hand crack, which is only half the story.

Protection 

Standard rack, a couple of draws for two bolts. Possibly extra big cams. The two bolts were placed after the first ascent. They now protect, which was originally, a very dicey crux. Fixed belay anchors on top, just below the summit.


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By Eric8
From: Framingham
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun route, definitely worth doing if you're in the area. Like all routes in this area, a little soft for the grade.