This is a line of two thin cracks to climbs just right of the columny A.C. Devil Dog (5.10d).
Using the bolts to climb this route will add a demension of interest, as the bolts are shared between this and The Moss Critique (the route immediately right of it) and are a bit of a reach to the right of the climb.
Think chimneying without the chimney and this will be your route.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
I wouldn't trad lead this, but if you're feeling psychotic, you could using small (up to 1") friends and nuts.
|Comments on To Pin or Not To Be
From: San Francisco
Apr 6, 2009
Followed up this one, but I'd consider leading it. Small gear can be found between bolts. One hard - solid 5.11 move low to the ground at the first bolt requires a very high left foot.
The remainder of the route felt like sustained 5.10+. Lots of friction, small crimps and some stemming. You can find some good rests by using the flared dihedral on the left, a few spots allow for hands free rests by lying back on the wall of the dihedral.
A little mossy - but the features that you need to climb the route are mostly clean.
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 27, 2014
A nice technical route that's worth checking out. It's well protected and a reasonable lead. Thin bouldery moves between solid stances. Supplement the bolts with cams from 0.6"-1". The route treads left of the bolt line for the most part and is free of moss. If you find yourself peddling on vegetation - reconsider your position.