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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
C'est La Fin T 
C'est La Morte T 
C'est La Vie T 
Chromium Shore T 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
Genuine Risk Takers T 
High Noon T,S 
Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
La Vie d' Pansey TR 
Le Boomerang T,S 
Left Side of Roark, The T 
Mental Cruelty TR 
Night T 
Noggin T 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) T 
Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
Pansee Sauvage T,S 
Pilgrim S 
Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

To Night 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Reveley and John Ruger
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Sep 23, 2001

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  • Description 

    This route is a great way to access the belay on top of Night or Back in Black etc. Begins with Pseudo Sidetrack up and left on an obvious ramp to a belay at a small tree(bolts). To Night takes of almost straight right of this belay. Hand traverse left placing the Lowe-Ball and other small crappy gear. Pull up and right through the overhang (a little scary) and onto the face. From here continue right and then up to the two bolt anchor on Night. To get to the anchor on Back in Black, move right and slightly down from the Night anchor with no pro (about 5.9) This is a short pitch with some questionable rock and definitely questionable gear. Most usefull to access the toprope on Night.


    Protection 

    There is not much pro on this pitch. A red Lowe Ball and small offset Aliens are of use. Bring small gear including RPs.



    Comments on To Night Add Comment
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    By Brad Bond
    Jul 13, 2002

    I thought this one deserved the "vs" rating, but I guess I could have missed something (like the pro!). A good way to do this route is to continue strait up the right-facing corner above the anchors on Night , which is 9+ s (second pitch of Night?), and then left on the obvious left-leaning crack system (also 9) and up to easier ground. A long, fun and spicy "5.9" outing.