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To Gri Gri, or not to Gri Gri?
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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
May 1, 2012
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

DexterRutecki wrote:
Yeah.... and whats your point? You want a gold star for belaying correctly??? I was simply telling the poster the way most people get dropped with a grigri, try to follow along with the adults Keenan. Shouldnt you be watching nickelodeon or somethin??? and probably a good thing considering you dont have much "mental input" to start with...



and I was just saying I've never seen anyone get dropped with one, I've been dropped by someone belaying with a atc in a gym, said take, leaned back, and found myself sitting on the ground 20 feet down. that pissed me off a little bit.
I've fucked with my friends, letting them fall an extra 10 feet or so, but I do my best not to drop people.

maybe chill out dex, not saying you're wrong, just saying it's not a huge problem. had more than a few total noobs first time belaying me catch my 200 pound ass on leader falls with no casualties.


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By matt davies
May 1, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
maybe chill out dex, not saying you're wrong, just saying it's not a huge problem. had more than a few total noobs first time belaying me catch my 200 pound ass on leader falls with no casualties.

Give Dex a break, he lives in a railroad car in Aspen, and he is clearly a second tier skier. I don't think TJ could have won the Powder 8 championship with Dexter, frankly.


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By bearbreeder
May 1, 2012

amazing how all those euro bums dont drop like flies ... using gri gris and all ... they should all be dead if what some MPers say is true ;)


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By Kyle Blase
From Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2012
hardcore unicycle!

GriGri has advantages and disadvantages, just like an atc. I use mine when top rope belaying and sometimes for belaying a second(though I prefer an atc guide or equivalent for belaying a second). I rarely use it for lead belaying, however, and an atc is typically easier. It functions nicely as an ascender(with a cordellette leg loop on a klemheist) and has many useful functions other than belaying. My recommendation is to keep it around and you will most likely find things you like it for.


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By Kiri Namtvedt
May 1, 2012

I suspect that the majority of Gri Gri owners use it occasionally, when the situation warrants.

Re: belayers not paying attention while belaying: this behavior has nothing to do with the type of belay device; the closest I've come to this myself was with a belayer using an ATC, and I stopped climbing with her. Problem solved.

The worst belaying techniques I've witnessed in the gym were new climbers with ATCs... and one particular lead belayer who was talking to someone while belaying and lost control of the rope when the leader fell. He managed to catch her as her feet reached his shoulders. And he was belaying with an ATC.

Do accidents happen with Gri Gris? I'm sure they do. Does that mean you shouldn't use or own one? Nope.


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By Brandon Bishoff
From Austin, TX
May 1, 2012

For what it's worth, the gri gri probably saved my life once.

I had clipped the chains on a pretty moderate sport route and was being lowered. a girl i had just started climbing with was belaying, and she was actually a pretty good belayer, never shorted me or anything like that and was always pretty attentive. As i was being lowered I accidentally kicked off a pretty big rock and it feel straight at her face. She panicked, tripped as she was trying to dodge the rock, and falling down the hill her feet didn't reach the ground so she swung out into the air getting dragged against the rock. She totally let go of the rope in the chaos, but luckily the gri gri's auto lock feature saved me from a 70 ft. drop straight to the ground.
I've never climbed with anything since.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
May 1, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
not saying you're wrong, just saying it's not a huge problem. had more than a few total noobs first time belaying me catch my 200 pound ass on leader falls with no casualties.


It is a pretty big problem with grigris(or more correctly the belayers using them). There were at least two incidents last summer of people getting dropped in the red river gorge through that exact scenario, so to say its not an issue is wrong.

Just because a few noobs caught you a few times does not mean that it can never happen. I mean seriously you are 19 and have been climbing for what a handful of years? Yet you are SOOOO sure you have seen and heard everything. Oh to be young and dumb!!

With all that said I still prefer to belay and be belayed with a gri gri. As long as they dont use the "no hand on the brake only on the cam" method.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
May 1, 2012
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

DexterRutecki wrote:
It is a pretty big problem with grigris(or more correctly the belayers using them). There were at least two incidents last summer of people getting dropped in the red river gorge through that exact scenario, so to say its not an issue is wrong. Just because a few noobs caught you a few times does not mean that it can never happen. I mean seriously you are 19 and have been climbing for what a handful of years? Yet you are SOOOO sure you have seen and heard everything. Oh to be young and dumb!! With all that said I still prefer to belay and be belayed with a gri gri. As long as they dont use the "no hand on the brake only on the cam" method.


I've been climbing for 8 years, mostly trad and alpine. I know how to climb safely and have enough experience to weigh in on the merits of a gri. back the fuck off.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
May 1, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
back the fuck off.


Ooooo internet tough guy :) You going to challenge me to a fight again!!?? haha....

and obviously you dont know enough to weigh in on the merits of the gri gri because you just said climbers getting dropped with one isnt an issue.... even though petzl came out with a whole revised way of belaying last year to prevent exactly that from happening. Keep going kel this is entertaining.


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By Brian in SLC
May 1, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

John Wilder wrote:
Nice thought, but its not true that gri-gri's create greater liability for gyms. Especially since, in the multitude of gyms i've been to, i've never heard of one that doesn't allow gri-gri's at all.


Rockreation here in SLC doesn't allow use of Gri Gri's.

Momentum does.

My bet, based on heresay, is way more folks hit the deck lead climbing in "Mo" than in Rockreation.

Probably seen more misuse of the Gri Gri in gyms than anywhere else. Doesn't seem to be an easy thing to either learn to do correctly, or, to maintain that learned method.

Anyhoo....


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
May 1, 2012
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

I never challenged you to fight.
your opinion is just as valid as mine on this site.

back off doesn't equate to I'm gonna kick your ass, you're an anonymous avatar.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
May 1, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
I'm 6 foot 6 and weigh 200 pounds, not that I'm looking for a fight, but come at me bro.


"Come at me bro" is something a juiced up guido would say when they are looking for a fight.

You just come off as a 16 year old kid who thinks he knows everything with most things you say, nothing personal you just have a lot to learn. Dont forget it wasnt that long ago that you were on nickeldeon.


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By Ty Morrison-Heath
From Bozeman, MT
May 1, 2012
Profile Photo <br />


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 1, 2012
Bocan

Am I going to hell for laughing at that special olympics post? I feel bad, but man it was funny.


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By Ty Morrison-Heath
From Bozeman, MT
May 1, 2012
Profile Photo <br />

I've already secured my place in hell...so I'll post that often and everywhere.


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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
May 1, 2012
don't throw rocks

johnL wrote:
His comment was in reference to long aid leads, calm down.


+1


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By APBT1976
May 1, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

+1 again... funny shit!

although i suppose in a way i do it all the time.

Ehy at least i know what class i compete in at least right?


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
May 1, 2012
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

DexterRutecki wrote:
"Come at me bro" is something a juiced up guido would say when they are looking for a fight. You just come off as a 16 year old kid who thinks he knows everything with most things you say, nothing personal you just have a lot to learn. Dont forget it wasnt that long ago that you were on nickeldeon.



I never had TV as a kid, you don't know me, and the come at me bro comment was meant to be taken as a joke, because it is a thing that stupid juiced up guidos say. I guess you missed that.

you come off as a dude living in a boxcar in aspen who is a second rate skier and professes his knowledge of everything.


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By cfuttner
May 1, 2012

Here's a good one.
www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13284&hilit=dog>>>
Belayer drops her climber while using a grigri. The climber lands on her dog and kills it.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
May 1, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
the come at me bro comment was meant to be taken as a joke


Suuuure. Funny how everything you say is always "a joke" and not meant to be taken seriously.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 1, 2012
Colonel Mustard

DexterRutecki wrote:
Suuuure. Funny how everything you say is always "a joke" and not meant to be taken seriously.


Are you seriously trying to maneuver yourself into the victim spot in this hypothetical nonsense? Drama much?


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
May 1, 2012

cfuttner wrote:
Here's a good one. www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13284&hilit=dog>>> Belayer drops her climber while using a grigri. The climber lands on her dog and kills it. Good show.


There is one of many examples keenen... Oh yeah you have personally never seen this happen so apparently it NEVER happens and is not a big deal. Even though petzl totally revised their belay instructions based on incidents like this.....

19 year old keenan from nickeldeon says its not a big deal so it must not be!


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 1, 2012
Colonel Mustard

DexterRutecki wrote:
No not at all... The victim?? What are you even talking about here?


You sound all hurt about this kid supposedly threatening you on the internet. It sounded pretty serious, like some major hanky time for you.

And what are you talking about? That a belay device can be used incorrectly? That's your grand point? Do you have any other gems of knowledge, oh master of the obvious? Should I wipe my ass with a rake?


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
May 1, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say no. But please, if you do, record it in some way. Even audio would be priceless. Hilarious.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 1, 2012
Colonel Mustard

muttonface wrote:
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say no. But please, if you do, record it in some way. Even audio would be priceless. Hilarious.


I'll attempt to document. My major problem right now is finding a short-handled rake. I'm looking to rig up something where I can just sort of do a bear scratch on a fixed rake over some newspapers.


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