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To Gri Gri, or not to Gri Gri?
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By Andrewprime1
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 29, 2012
Castleton Approach

I went back a ways in the archives and couldn't find a thread about this, so here it goes. I bought a Gri Gri 2 the other day and took it out for a day in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Overall, I liked it, I am still trying to figure out how to pay out slack quickly (with the whole hold the cam down with your brake-hand thumb thing) but I am still not sold on if it was worth the investment.

The guys at IME told me a bunch of cool things you can do with them, like as a backup when you are jugging, or simul-rapping if your partner also has one (which I know is not technically "acceptable use") I like the increased safety aspect, but I never really felt unsafe using an ATC. Overall it seems like a fancy toy that I don't know if I need or not.

So what do you guys think? Who here uses one and why or why not?


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Apr 29, 2012
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

super useful for aid climbing, can be used as a solo device and makes the 3 hour aid leads way easier on the belayer.

less chance of being dropped by your belayer, don't really have to pay attention to the climber. get it


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 29, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
less chance of being dropped by your belayer, don't really have to pay attention to the climber.


You dont know what you are talking about.... and I feel bad for whoever you are belaying!

You should be paying attention to your climber no matter what belay device you choose to use. Were you belaying kel?


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By Scott Bennett
Apr 29, 2012
photo by Forest Woodward

I really like using the grigri, I think it has a lot of functionality for multipitch rock climbing. I've written a bit about different uses, like shortfixing and simuling, on my blog.


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By johnthethird
Apr 29, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
don't really have to pay attention to the climber. get it


Do NOT listen to this.


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 29, 2012
smiley face

but what if they have a fat ass?


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By johnthethird
Apr 29, 2012

A little tip on paying out slack, you dont have to touch the cam. I have the 1st gen. grigri, but I dont see why it wouldnt work with GG2. simply hold the nose down, and yard out as much rope as you need to. As long as the nose is pointed downwards, the cam wont engage, and short rope your partner, and you keep your mitts away from cam.

Grigri's are great for a number of reasons. But like any device, it has its limitations.


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Apr 29, 2012
meow

I LOVE THE GRI GRI!! Best belay device ever invented.


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Apr 29, 2012
meow

I LOVE THE GRI GRI!! Best belay device ever invented.


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By Bob Dobalina
Apr 29, 2012

I bought my GriGri for big wall belays (no, you can't watch the leader the entire time. period), and for solo aiding (much better than a clove hitch).
Sometimes I will use it for belaying a sport climber that is "working" a sequence of moves and is falling a lot.

I DON'T use my GriGri on multipitch freeclimbing routes or whenever a leader needs the "softer" catch that you get from an ATC. (due to poor quality intermediate anchors)


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By cfuttner
Apr 29, 2012

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
don't really have to pay attention to the climber. get it

Wow, the exact reason I refuse to be belayed by anyone I don't know well with a gri gri. How many times do I need to see someone at the crag ogling the hot chick next door or having a discussion with their buds while belaying with one of these things. The gri gri breeds inattentiveness. Worried about rocks falling and knocking you out? Wear a helmet while you belay and pay attention.


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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 29, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
less chance of being dropped by your belayer, don't really have to pay attention to the climber. get it


Fuck me. That hurt. My panties bunched up so fast when I read this that I blew a testicle. This statement is wrong in so many ways. Many people have been dropped by belayers with gri gris for all kinds of reasons.


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By mission
Apr 29, 2012

Andrewprime1 wrote:
I went back a ways in the archives and couldn't find a thread about this, so here it goes. I bought a Gri Gri 2 the other day and took it out for a day in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Overall, I liked it, I am still trying to figure out how to pay out slack quickly (with the whole hold the cam down with your brake-hand thumb thing) but I am still not sold on if it was worth the investment. The guys at IME told me a bunch of cool things you can do with them, like as a backup when you are jugging, or simul-rapping if your partner also has one (which I know is not technically "acceptable use") I like the increased safety aspect, but I never really felt unsafe using an ATC. Overall it seems like a fancy toy that I don't know if I need or not. So what do you guys think? Who here uses one and why or why not?


Auto-locking is the way to go. I've experienced both belaying with and being belayed by ATCs on projects, and not having auto-lock just makes the experience pretty unpleasant, even if you don't have to resort to full out boinking.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 29, 2012

johnL wrote:
His comment was in reference to long aid leads, calm down.


Because I am sure the OP is going to be doing an multi hour aid lead real soon.... Either way I don't think it is ever a good idea to "not pay attention to the climber" as keenan put it.

I am pretty sure hour long aid belays are not one of the primary uses of grigris anyway....


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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Apr 29, 2012
Mathematical!

I work at a gym and we don't allow Gri Gri's because people tend to get in more accidents with them. They provide a false sense of security that ends up getting people hurt.

Now don't get me wrong, I don't think they are terrible devices, people just frequently fail to understand how to use them properly. I own a Gri Gri 2 and I'll pull it out when I'm doing a lot of belaying on top rope, but if I'm belaying someone on something tough, I much prefer my ATC.


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By JP Rohde
From salt lake city, utah
Apr 29, 2012
uintas

Gri gri 2 is the way to go most the time, getting comfortable feeding just takes a little bit of practice. Definitely safer on multi-pitch. Simul -rapping saves a ton of time on long descents as well.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 29, 2012

Taylor Ogden wrote:
I own a Gri Gri 2 and I'll pull it out when I'm doing a lot of belaying on top rope, but if I'm belaying someone on something tough, I much prefer my ATC.


If its tough and someone is hanging a lot it is much easier to hold them using a gri gri than ATC. Not to mention when used properly I think its a safer device than an ATC. Of course any device used improperly, ATC included, is going to be dangerous.

But if my buddy is going to be doing a hard climb I always reach for the gri gri.


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By Andrewprime1
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 29, 2012
Castleton Approach

Don't get me wrong guys, I am no gumby (or a troll, so calm down Old Custer). The Gri Gri should be used just like any belay device: that is with constant attention being paid to the climber. It is nice to have the backup just in case your attention slips, but I see new climbers drooling over the fucking things and it makes me nervous... I'm glad Rockreation doesn't allow them Taylor - I wouldn't trust just anyone belaying me with one.

It is nice not having to hold someone's weight while they hang and I bet it would be nice using it to belay a second up, but it sucks you can''t really rap on the damn thing! I mean, sure, on a single rope, but that is a pain in the ass.

Im going to take it out again this week and decide if I like it. Stay tuned if you're in the market for a slightly used Gri Gri 2 though.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Apr 29, 2012
Colonel Mustard

Taylor Ogden wrote:
I work at a gym and we don't allow Gri Gri's because people tend to get in more accidents with them. They provide a false sense of security that ends up getting people hurt. Now don't get me wrong, I don't think they are terrible devices, people just frequently fail to understand how to use them properly. I own a Gri Gri 2 and I'll pull it out when I'm doing a lot of belaying on top rope, but if I'm belaying someone on something tough, I much prefer my ATC.


Every gym has its arbitrary "safety features" but disqualifying a perfectly valid belay device is small-minded at best.

Andrewprime1 wrote:
Don't get me wrong guys, I am no gumby (or a troll, so calm down Old Custer).


I didn't say you were a troll. It's just a bit of a late and ridiculous debate to my mind. Carry on with the ground breaking research though.


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Apr 29, 2012
meow

Yeah haters gonna hate, but I'll submit my recommendation for those who wan't some auto locking action...

Mammut Smart Alpine
Mammut Smart Alpine


Behold, the smart alpine. Although this device is finicky at first and requires some getting used to, as well as working best with an HMS, it is... auto-locking! Non-mechanical auto-locking that works using pressure instead of mechanics- i.e. it's no gri-gri machine that can potentially fail.

Can be used to double strand rappel - also auto-locks on rappel - and has auto-locking guide mode.

Shit I sound like a salesman... +1 for the fact they are half the price of a gri gri 2.


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Apr 29, 2012
meow

Old Custer wrote:
Feel free to carry on though while I point and laugh ;).


I think it goes ... "Keep Calm and Climb On"


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By John D
Apr 29, 2012

I like my gri-gri, but I use it mostly for non-standard applications, or when I'm guiding and belaying all day. I like it for belaying aid pitches, because it's like watching paint dry sometimes. It's a good back up for jugging, and you can even use it with one ascender to ascend a rope. It's also good for soloing.

So is it worth the investment? If you see yourself doing these things, then probably yes. If you're just cragging and multi-pitching then probably not.


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By Ryan N
From Lone Tree, Colorado
Apr 29, 2012
RJN

Or is it GiGi?


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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Apr 29, 2012
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
super useful for aid climbing, can be used as a solo device and makes the 3 hour aid leads way easier on the belayer. less chance of being dropped by your belayer, don't really have to pay attention to the climber. get it


For those of you getting upset by this statement, have you belayed a 3 or 4 or 5 hour aid lead? Keenan is exactly right that this is a big advantage.


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By Andrewprime1
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 29, 2012
Castleton Approach

Old Custer wrote:
I don't have a soft spot in my heart for gym Nazism. Every gym has its arbitrary "safety features" but disqualifying a perfectly valid belay device is small-minded at best.


I don't know, I have seen a lot of people do absolutely retarded things in the gym, even good climbers/belayers get lazy inside. And for the thread in general, who cares if it's useless? I am entertained and I get to hear people's opinions on the Gri Gri.


DexterRutecki wrote:
You can easy rappel with a grigri. Look up a biner block. You rappel down on one line.


I have heard of this, but I have never seen it done. don't you have to use a trail line to get the rope back?


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Apr 29, 2012
meow

DexterRutecki wrote:
You can easy rappel with a grigri. Look up a biner block. You rappel down on one line.


www.rockandice.com/articles/accidents/article/791-reepschnur>>>

Shit happens.

Biner Blocks are reasonable solution to rapping on a single cord...
Albeit a bit sketchy ^see above link. But if I'm going to haul 60m of 6mm cord, I might as well just bring another 60m and my ATC... what's 5 pounds to your life?


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