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Left Flank
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To Defy The Laws Of Tradition 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P. Jarrard, C. Snyder
Page Views: 11,388
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (262)
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"To Defy Laws of Tradition", 5.10a, Left...

Description 

A great pocketed route with lots of chalk up a slightly overhanging face. The technical crux is down low; the enduro crux is up high.

Protection 

The route is well bolted and has a bolted anchor.

Location 

This route is located on the Left Flank wall, and is the left-most route on the crag, about 20' left of a striking 5.12a arete. To reach Left Flank, take 77 East through the Nada Tunnel, then 1 more mile East to the Martin's Fork trailhead on the left. Cross the street and take the Military Wall/Left Flank trailhead, then bear left at the Y.


Photos of To Defy The Laws Of Tradition Slideshow Add Photo
tdtlot
tdtlot
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition
Such a rad climb
Such a rad climb
Being Herself
Being Herself
From the start
BETA PHOTO: From the start
To Defy the Laws of Tradition (left), and Too Many...
To Defy the Laws of Tradition (left), and Too Many...
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition
Tina heel hooking.
Tina heel hooking.
Brian on the sweet pocketed face of To Defy the La...
Brian on the sweet pocketed face of To Defy the La...
Last move of To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.10a
BETA PHOTO: Last move of To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.10a
Me at the top after leading. Amazing climb. Some o...
Me at the top after leading. Amazing climb. Some o...
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition
Dan setting up for the last few moves, Fall 2006
Dan setting up for the last few moves, Fall 2006
Loved this fantastic climb at RRG.  A sweet divers...
Loved this fantastic climb at RRG. A sweet divers...

Comments on To Defy The Laws Of Tradition Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2014
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Jun 15, 2008

It doesn't get much better than this. Incredibly enjoyable climbing the whole way.
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Oct 14, 2008

if i recall, as you climb between the 5th and 6th bolts, you'll notice a hanger-less bolt. the space left between them is big (not really big enough to warrant another bolt, though), maybe 15 ft. definitely instruct your belayer on soft catches, as there is potential for swinging into the bulge down low and coming away with a damaged foot.

definitely a spectacular route. a good introduction to solid 10a climbing.
By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Apr 3, 2010

Great climb, but I felt that the feet were kind of tenuous. Got pumped near the top, and somehow took a 25-30 footer at the last bolt before the anchors. Super classic, just bucked me off somehow. Put me upside down and backwards. Coolest/harshest fall I've taken. The bugger. Loved the climb still.
By Ross Young
From: Columbus, OH
Jan 11, 2011

One of the most fun 10's i have ever climbied. the crux is trying to figure out which pocket to grab when almost ALL of them are chalked up. enjoy!
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Mar 20, 2011

The first twenty five feet of this route are so polished that they completely take the fun out of it.
By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Quite good but, for about the same grade, Boltergeist is better and more aesthetic.
By dorseyec
Oct 20, 2011

Haha boltergeist is an entirely different climb, not to mention in an entirely different region... I am not sure why you are comparing the two, one is vertical pockets while the other one is slab.

Thats like saying "I like this climb but Rock Wars is a much better 10a." Apples to oranges.
By S. Neoh
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

OK, legit point. I seem to remember reading somewhere To Defy is considered by some as one of the best 10a in the whole of RRG. In my book, it isn't. Perhaps an over reaction on my part.
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wish I had lead it but it was still a great climb. Hard and pumpy the whole way up. Its a long and sustained 5.10
By JackWeaver
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 25, 2013

I thought this route was great! The none of the holds were polished, but the first foot holds were wet even though it hadn't rained. The water seemed to be seeping from the bottom of the cliff. Very consistent 5.10a/b all the way to the anchors
By obiss
Nov 24, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Oct 13, 2013 While pretty easy if you've got a 5'10' or so APE, this route is totally overrated. The pretty fun climbing up higher doesn't make up for the muddy start and height dependent crux. Easily .10c if you're shorter. Not quite sure what all the fuss is about.
By S. Neoh
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I agree, obiss, at the risk of pissing more people off.
I am a shade under 5'5", the climb felt .10a/b to me but that was a while back. Chalk city up high on the route. Yuck.
By Jfaub
From: Ottawa, On
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Probably one of the better 10a's i've done so far. Cool, technical moves, and a slightly overhanging finish make this a classic. Good intro to the grade. Yes, there is an excessive amount of chalk on the holds, but the moves are good enough that I didn't mind too much.