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To buy or not to buy a second rope
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By Mostafa
From Alameda
Nov 5, 2012
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks
I just got rid of my thick 10.2 sport rope (after a year of use it seemed more like 10.5) and now I am left with a 9.9 70m bicolor new england glider. I had some questions that MP may be able to answer.

1. Do I need more than one rope? One for trad multi pitch and one for cragging?

1a. Or just use the 9.9 for everything until that one needs to be retired.

2. If I get a second rope should I get doubles for trad and use the 9.9 for cragging?

3. If I get a second rope should I get a 9.6-9.8 cragging rope? And continue to use the 9.9 for trad?

4. If I get a second rope should I get 9.2-9.8 trad rope? And use the 9.9 for cragging?

These are questions I've been asking my self and wanted to ask some other climbers out there. Thanks for any advise!

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By Peter Stokes
From Them Thar Hills
Nov 5, 2012
Wall Street, Moab, UT
Ropes are expensive, and can get damaged when I wasn't planning on it, so I like to have more than one around. That way I can wait to get them on sale, sometimes for $100 less than I could find on short notice. As for diameter, I just figure thicker lasts longer if it's getting beat up and pulled sideways over edges, and the thicker ones seem to go on sale more often.

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Nov 5, 2012
tanuki
A lot depends on the type of climbing you do. I have doubles and they sit in a bin. I used them a handful of times in NC, but never since I moved to AZ. YMMV, but think hard about if you will use them or not.

As far as singles go, for me 9.8 (or 9.9) is the sweet spot. I think that a 9.8 / 9.9 70M bi-color is just about the best do-everything rope out there. It is what I just purchased to replace my 10.1 Sterling bi-color, which is also an awesome rope. The smaller ropes are cool to use, but the 9.2s and other smaller ropes usually wear a lot faster than the bigger ropes. I don't climb hard enough for the pound or so of weight savings to make a difference, so I stick with a slightly thicker rope that lasts longer and fills all my needs.

This is all my preference, and I am sure that some 5.14 crusher or alpine hard-man will look at things differently. However, if I were you I would use the 9.9 for everything and keep an eye out for a great deal ($180 or less) for the next 9.8 70M bi-color.

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By Ian Stewart
Nov 5, 2012
If you're asking random people online if you need a second rope, you probably don't need a second rope.

I'm not trying to be snarky either, I'm being serious. I have two 60m, 10.3mm-ish ropes. 95% of the time I'm only using one rope, while the other 5% of the time I'm only using the second rope if there's a larger group and we want to hang multiple ropes or if there's something that requires a 2-rope rappel. I've been in situations where a 70m would have been nice, but you already have a 70m. Unless you see a situation where you'll need more than a single 70m, why bother spending the cheddar? Ropes aren't cheap.

Of course your climbing needs may be different from mine, but you should have a MUCH better idea of whether or not you could use another rope than anybody else on here.

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By bearbreeder
Nov 5, 2012
You probably dont ...

Unless ur going to do multi and are going to do double rope raps ...

Spend the money on using up yr current rope ;)

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Nov 5, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.
You're in Vegas, so definitely a 70m single for Red Rocks. I personally use a single for most application, with a pair of petzl dragonfly's that come out together for alpine climbing, or one of which is tagged up to use with the single for rapells on straightforward multi pitch routes. Having an 8.2 to backup my 9.8 has come in handy plenty.

Conversely, you could just get a 70m single with 80m or 6mm static cord to throw in the pack for double rope rapells. (extra 10 meters on the static line is to compensate for rope stretch on the dynamic rope)

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 5, 2012
I have something like 12 ropes laying around my house at the moment. I use two of them 90% of the time. A 60m and a 70m. 60m for sport, 70m for trad or long sport pitches.

Since you're here and mostly a trad climber, you might consider picking up a 'short' rope on gearexpress.com for RR sport climbing- 45m, hell, even 40m is more than enough for like 85-90% of the sport here. Use that and save your 9.9mm rope for everything else and get more life out of it!

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By Stephan Doyle
Nov 5, 2012
Depends what you mean by trad. A 9.2 or similar is great for alpine (then again, halves/twins not a bad choice there either), but I take my burly 10+ rope for anything that doesn't require a long approach. For the climbing itself, I couldn't justify owning more than one.

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By Mostafa
From Alameda
Nov 5, 2012
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks
Thanks for the advice guys I'll keep my eye out for a good deal and possibly pick up a second. 9.8 Sterling 60m for $145 is what I've seen so far.

For now I'll use the 9.9 until I have a better idea of what I really want to use it for.

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By richie
From englewood, tn
Nov 5, 2012
Stephan Doyle wrote:
Depends what you mean by trad. A 9.2 or similar is great for alpine (then again, halves/twins not a bad choice there either), but I take my burly 10+ rope for anything that doesn't require a long approach. For the climbing itself, I couldn't justify owning more than one.

what he said

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By RockyMtnTed
Nov 5, 2012
Mostafa wrote:
Thanks for the advice guys I'll keep my eye out for a good deal and possibly pick up a second. 9.8 Sterling 60m for $145 is what I've seen so far. For now I'll use the 9.9 until I have a better idea of what I really want to use it for.


Yeah you dont even have an idea of what you will use a second rope for... Why are you so concerned with buying something you dont even have a use for?

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By RockyMtnTed
Nov 5, 2012
Like others have said, if you have to ask online if you need something you probably dont need it...

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By Mostafa
From Alameda
Nov 5, 2012
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks
RockyMtnTed wrote:
Like others have said, if you have to ask online if you need something you probably dont need it...


I asked online because I figured more experienced climbers would be able to offer some insight to the benefits of a second rope. I've always had two ropes I used one for sport and one for trad made sense to me. I now just have the one rope...I guess I felt like I had to get another to get back to my mindset of one for trad one for sport.

The answers seems like it really just comes down to how much $ you have and personal preference.

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By Alex Swan
From West
Nov 5, 2012
Rather Grand
I'd agree that it's always good to have a second rope. A workhorse and a rope for sending. Helps me get stoked anyhow. As for a cragging vs. Trad rope? Don't worry about it 9.6 for both IMHO

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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 5, 2012
Andrew Gram
I have a very thin line I use for a second rope for double rope raps and for a tag line when putting up new routes or aid climbing. I use a 10 for almost everything else, and have a super burly 10.5 edelwiess i use for when i have to jug the lead line. I see no reason for ropes less diameter than 10mm unless you are climbing really hard where the weight matters - like 5.12 or harder. Thicker ropes last longer.

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