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Nicolum Knob
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To Bolt or Not to Bee 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: spring, summer and fall
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: tlinn on Sep 24, 2008

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Chris Michalak finishing pitch one.

Description 

A 4 pitch route up the west side of the cliff climbing a mix of cracks and slabs to the summit. The first and the fourth pitches are the best and the second and third pitches are shorter and less sustained. Pitch one climbs a splitter finger crack at a grade of 5.9 for a full 30 meters and can easily be linked into pitch 2 by following the slanting ramp at the extreme left side of the cliff. Pitch 3 has a few nice moves on a layback flake but is mostly walking along ledges and taking the path of least resistance to the bottom of pitch four. Pitch four has a mix of everything from a chimney start to a layback, to a finger crack and slab crux that demands your attention. The top gives nice views down the Fraser Valley and is a beautiful spot to relax and enjoy the surroundings.

Location 

on the far left (west) side of the cliff, climbing steeply from the forest on pitch one just a few meters to the east of the Highway 12 sign on the trail. From the trail walk east on a faint trail to a left facing corner where the route begins. If you follow the trail to the Highway 12 sign you won't have any trouble finding the start of the route.

Protection 

small nuts, tcu's and cams to fist size, with one big piece for the last pitch (a #4 or #3 camalot should suffice). The last pitch has four bolts and the other pitches are trad, but with bolted belays. From the top you rappel the route from the fixed rappel anchors, first dropping down pitch 4 to the belay at the top of pitch 3, but then rappelling more directly to a ledge directly below the start of pitch 4 on a large ledge with big trees (if you rappel straight down you won't miss it). From the ledge look for the fixed rap anchors taking you to the station at the top of pitch one, where you can easily rappel to the base of the route.


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