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To be or not to be (a trad climber)
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Apr 24, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
I LOVE TRAD CLIMBING!!!!! Trad belays SUCK!!!! All trad climbs should have bolted belays, PERIOD! Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
605 points
Apr 24, 2011
Hank Caylor wrote:
I LOVE TRAD CLIMBING!!!!! Trad belays SUCK!!!! All trad climbs should have bolted belays, PERIOD!


while i think that if there is a very obvious, quickly, easily constructed gear anchor it should remain unbolted, i think that people are far too reticent to bolt an belay anchor on multipitch routes where the anchor is less than perfect
T.L. Kushner
Joined May 21, 2009
7 points
Apr 25, 2011
Takin flight on the 'sky swing'
I've had more than a few friends hurt themselves while in the learning curve of placing their own gear.

--Study
and
--learn well

cause your life and your buddy's life is in your hands.

Practice makes perfect!!! And I think that bolts added post FA are called "chicken bolts" and get chopped and the driller usually gets shat on by his peers
Stiles
From the Mountains
Joined May 21, 2003
791 points
Apr 25, 2011
Trad is great fun and very rewarding. I love sport and I am a better sport climber because I spent the first 20 years climbing trad. Nothing will teach you how to find the best stance like trying to get gear in. I even like to take my shirt off and put a beanie on and I love that too. It is all climbing and it is all good. The more you do the more opportunities you have. Trad will open up a world of climbing you are missing. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,670 points
Apr 26, 2011
Terry Price wrote:
Given passage of time since your first post, how about an update? Have you repeated the same route as your maiden voyage?


I have not had the opportunity to get back to the same route I first did, but I have had quite a bit more trad fun since my first. Having a great time learning this style of climbing, and enjoying the freedom for sure. It seems so much more natural to scope a line (even if its been climbed 100 times) and pick which way to go, instead of following the bolts. I feel pretty confident in my placements thus far but have not taken any true falls on them yet. I have tested and re-tested tons of placements and I'm getting to be more comfortable with all of my gear.

All in all, I'll be climbing traditionally for a long time, with any luck. And no - I have not had any epics yet! I dread/look forward to it.
S.Stelli
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Dec 21, 2009
171 points


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