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To be or not to be (a trad climber)
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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Apr 24, 2011
Yoda
I LOVE TRAD CLIMBING!!!!! Trad belays SUCK!!!! All trad climbs should have bolted belays, PERIOD!

FLAG
By T.L. Kushner
Apr 24, 2011
Hank Caylor wrote:
I LOVE TRAD CLIMBING!!!!! Trad belays SUCK!!!! All trad climbs should have bolted belays, PERIOD!


while i think that if there is a very obvious, quickly, easily constructed gear anchor it should remain unbolted, i think that people are far too reticent to bolt an belay anchor on multipitch routes where the anchor is less than perfect

FLAG
By Stiles
From the Mountains
Apr 25, 2011
Rough
I've had more than a few friends hurt themselves while in the learning curve of placing their own gear.

--Study
and
--learn well

cause your life and your buddy's life is in your hands.

Practice makes perfect!!! And I think that bolts added post FA are called "chicken bolts" and get chopped and the driller usually gets shat on by his peers

FLAG
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 25, 2011
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
Trad is great fun and very rewarding. I love sport and I am a better sport climber because I spent the first 20 years climbing trad. Nothing will teach you how to find the best stance like trying to get gear in. I even like to take my shirt off and put a beanie on and I love that too. It is all climbing and it is all good. The more you do the more opportunities you have. Trad will open up a world of climbing you are missing.

FLAG
By S.Stelli
From Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 26, 2011
Terry Price wrote:
Given passage of time since your first post, how about an update? Have you repeated the same route as your maiden voyage?


I have not had the opportunity to get back to the same route I first did, but I have had quite a bit more trad fun since my first. Having a great time learning this style of climbing, and enjoying the freedom for sure. It seems so much more natural to scope a line (even if its been climbed 100 times) and pick which way to go, instead of following the bolts. I feel pretty confident in my placements thus far but have not taken any true falls on them yet. I have tested and re-tested tons of placements and I'm getting to be more comfortable with all of my gear.

All in all, I'll be climbing traditionally for a long time, with any luck. And no - I have not had any epics yet! I dread/look forward to it.

FLAG


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