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Carney Springs Wall
Routes Sorted
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De Grazia T 
Honeymooners P1 Variation, The S 
Honeymooners, The T 
To Air is Human T 

To Air is Human 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Peggy Buckey 02-1988
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Feb 24, 2013

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs the center of the Carney Springs Wall. The approach takes roughly 1-2 hours. The route name memorializes the whippers that were taken on the second pitch.

P1: Start left of the Honeymooners below a slab and just left of a bushy crack. Climb the center of the slab past one bolt to a ramp. Go up right on the ramp past a layback move to a shallow left facing corner on the wall above. Climb this past three bolts (5.10+/11-) to the lower angled face above. Climb pockets past a bolt to a two bolt hanging belay (150 feet).
P2: Climb up left from the belay past two bolts to a short, left facing corner in the wave of rock above. Up the corner to a sloping ledge (bolt), then reach over the wave on "holds." Swing over on the left (crux), then up the face past pockets (TCUs) to a wide crack. Follow the crack up left to a belay ledge and an anchor (60 feet).

Notes: 1st bolt on P1 placed after the FA. All other bolts placed on the lead. The 3rd bolt on P2 (in thew wave) was placed from a hook after some bug whippers were taken.

Location 

This route climbs the center of the Carney Springs Wall. The approach takes roughly 1-2 hours.

Protection 

The route is mostly protected by bolts.
Rappel the route.


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